EATING OUT: The Press Kitchen, 59-63 Walmgate, York

The Press Kitchen’s name is a knowing nod to its newsgathering neighbours just across the road and, given its location, it was only a matter of time before you’d read all about it!

For weeks, curious colleagues of mine have been tempted by the aromas and samples occasionally offered outside on the pavement since the independent restaurant, wine bar and deli opened earlier this year.

Indeed, the versatility of The Press Kitchen is one of its real strengths.

We visited for a three-course, pre-theatre meal in the early evening, but will be back again to choose our favourites from the spoilt-for-choice cheese counter.

Equally, it’s a pleasant venue to enjoy a quick coffee or cocktail.

Inside, the restaurant is modern, stylish and relaxed but, after arriving on a humid midweek night, we were asked if we wanted to eat al fresco, which has become a rare treat that just has to be capitalised on this summer and The Press Kitchen’s little courtyard area, with six tables for two, provided a cosy setting.

Due to licensing restrictions, the outside area must be vacated by 7pm however.

Despite a drinks menu that boasted 50 different wines, as well as six cocktails, with a thirst to quench I chose one of the half-dozen bottled beers (three American, two German) and, costing £4.80 for 500ml, was happy with the level of wallet damage, given current city centre prices.

We were making our food choices, meanwhile, from the 5pm to 10pm evening menu (the brunch menu runs from 8am to 5pm) and the prices again were really reasonable with a cost of £9.90 for the most-expensive main courses.

There were also sharing dishes - a cheese board (three for £7.95 or five for £12.95), a cold meat platter (£15.95) and a veggie option (£11.95) - which will again demand another stroll over the street.

With an onus on quality rather than quantity, there are only five starters and seven mains to select from, including The Press Pasta of the Day, which was a tasty-sounding blue cheese offering four our meal.

For first course, I decided on traditional Brussels pâté with cornichon butter served with crisp bread.

It was a generous pot that spread bountifully on the three buttery oval-shaped slices of lightly-toasted bread, with the accompanying red cabbage nicely doused in vinegar.

Nikki, my other half, went for creamy garlic mushrooms served with toasted chia seed bread and she chose well.

I know because I had to help her finish it off, given the number of small chopped mushrooms she was given.

The sauce was creamy and subtly garnished, as too was the toast.

For my main course, I went for citrus and garlic infused pork fillet, served with a ham hock cassoulet and rustic bread.

The standard was again high with the meat succulent and well-seasoned, while the chunks of ham bulked up the dish in the cassoulet, which had a good spicy kick to it and, although a little watery, the big slab of doughy bread, which was infused with herbs and other ingredients, mopped it up nicely.

In fact, by our second course, it was clear that it would be difficult to grow tired of the varying kinds of fresh bread on offer at The Press Kitchen.

Nikki plumped for Chicken Cacciatorre, described as a rich Italian casserole of pepper and tomato with chicken and creamy polenta.

It was another inspired combination of ingredients with a satisfying level of heat to it again, while the polenta was a brilliant alternative to potato and a perfect texture.

For dessert, so confident was I by now in the restaurant’s blending of flavours, that Parsnip & Syrup cake had to be sampled.

The former is my favourite vegetable and the latter tends to enhance any pudding, although I had never thought to combine the two, but the result was surprisingly good.

Both flavours came through in a good-sized and perfectly-moist slice.

Nikki stayed more traditional with Creme Brulee and the thick top layer of caramelised sugar broke with a gratifying noise to reveal a creamy custard with the right level of consistency - neither too runny or gloopy.

She wasn’t too sold on the polenta biscuit it was served with though, adding that she might have preferred the scoop of ice cream I paid an extra £1 for to complement my dessert.

In total, our bill cost £51, including two 500ml beers and a lemonade.

The Press Kitchen, 59-63 Walmgate.

www.thepresskitchen.co.uk

Food: Original 4.5/5

Ambience: Relaxed 4/5

Service: Friendly 4/5

Value: Excellent 5/5

Reviews are independent and paid for by The Press