IT'S Chianti time. It's been a while since we enjoyed this classic Italian red but every so often it has to be the go-to tipple, especially with any red meat bolognese-type pasta dishes or lovely olive oily grub.

There are slightly different types of Chianti for different prices and preferences, with variances generally based on age, the exact amount of Sangiovese grape used (the predominant grape) and the specific district of the Chianti region in Tuscany from where it hails.

But it is all rather complicated, and some bottles are clearly better than others.

What you need to look for mainly is the DOC/G label (denominazione di origine controllata e garantina - which basically means it comes from the right places and there are guarantees its made the proper way and tastes like it should), and then whether there are any addendum, such as "Classico", "Superiore" or "Riserva", which basically suggest its of higher quality than regular Chianti.

The regular stuff (labelled simply Chianti) is generally made from grapes from wherever in the Chianti region, with as little as three months' ageing permitted.

It contains a minimum of 70-80 per cent Sangiovese (depending on who you believe), with other (sometimes white) grapes added to soften the tannin, tweak the flavour, or basically cut costs. It can be as little as 11.5 per cent and is generally cheaper but fruity and fun - good for a midweek pizza tea.

A last count there were eight sub-zones of the Chianti region, which are each allowed to affix their name to the label, confirming the grapes come from that place, pass their own production regulations, and are therefore of a certain (generally better) quality.

The most noted area is "Classico" - this is the original, and many would say, the best Chianti zone (eg for geographical not just historical reasons). This wine has specific regulations too - it must be at least 80 per cent Sangiovese with only other red grapes allowed in the blend, at least 12 per cent in strength, and aged for at least seven months in oak.

Now it gets a bit more complicated.

Chianti Superiore is produced under stricter rules than the standard stuff, including ageing of at least nine months, of which three must be in the bottle. However, these grapes cannot come from the Classico appellation, so you can't have Classico Superiore.

You do, however, have Classico Riserva.

Any such Riserva must be aged at least 24 months in oak and three in the bottle, with a minimum alcohol level of at least 12.5 per cent. This is generally better stuff again, with the better fruit saved for these drinks. The additional words "Gran Selezione" suggest the grapes are the producer's very best pick, and are aged six months longer.

Want to be more confused?

The label on a bottle of Melini Chianti Riserva - currently on offer at Waitrose, down from £9.99 to £6.66 until Tuesday - says it's earned its status following partial ageing in oak vats for eight months... ie not 24. Still, whatever the regulations, this is a bargain at its current Devil's price.

A 13 per cent ruby red tipple, it is medium-to-full-bodied with a dry but harmonious taste full of raspberry and blackberry fruitiness and smoky notes.

Another Chianti bargain from the same store is the Villa Cafaggio Classico, down from £13.49 to £9.99 till Tuesday.

Slightly fuller-bodied, slightly stronger at 13.5 per cent, and with stronger tannins that sit well with the aforementioned Italian food, it also displays refined black cherry and plum fruitiness and a bit more spice.