Henry Jenkins of Ellerton-on-Swale lived to be 169 years old… according to Henry Jenkins. The date of his burial at Bolton-on-Swale is recorded as December 9, 1670.
The date of his birth is less certain, but he claimed to have been born in 1501 (before parish records were required), and to have carried arrows to the English archers at the Battle of Flodden in 1513.
For many years this legendary Yorkshireman has had a pub named after him, the Henry Jenkins Inn at Kirby Malzeard near Ripon. Now he has a beer brewed in his honour as well, this week’s feature, Longevity, produced by Wall’s Brewery in Northallerton.
It is described as a “Milk Stout” on the label, a style so called due to the inclusion of unfermentable lactose (milk sugar) in the brew to give a residual sweetness in the beer. Milk stout was widely brewed until about 40 years ago, when its Ena Sharples image fell from favour.
The beer is very dark brown in colour with a minimal head, but a persistent layer of bubbles. The aroma is rich, full and inviting with prune and liquorice up front and a little dusting of cocoa behind.
In the mouth, there is plenty of dark fruit - cherries, damsons and the like as well as roasted malt, bitter chocolate, and a hint of leather.
There isn’t much in the way of sweetness as might be expected, but there is a very creamy texture and a slightly lactic sourness mid palate.
The aftertaste is actually quite dry with a firm bitterness and a brief peppery spike at the finish.
A distinctly modern take on a venerable beer style, and substantially stronger than its earlier forbears too.
• Recommended by Jim Helsby, of the York Beer And Wine Shop, Sandringham Street, York
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