Brighter – and better!

SIZE matters. That seems to be the attitude of publicans in York. Last year, The Maltings expanded; this year, it’s the turn of Brigantes. And who can blame them?

In an age when the pub trade is under the cosh and many licensees are hanging on for dear life, it’s important to celebrate those doing so well. And there aren’t many that have done as well as Brigantes in the past few years.

Since opening in Micklegate in 2006, the pub has become a key fixture in York’s drinking scene, regularly boasting one of the city’s finest beer ranges and winning a glut of awards.

It was York’s only no-smoking pub before the nationwide ban was introduced, has earned a sound reputation for its food, and has been a haven for those who want a few beers on that side of town without having to fight through marauding stag and hen parties to get to the bar.

Success came at a price though. In some ways Brigantes was, curiously, a victim of its popularity and its shape. The pub goes back a long way from the street, but because only the relatively narrow front area near the bar was visible to passers-by and because that area was often very busy, it was easy to be deterred from venturing in. That was a particular problem for would-be diners, says landlord Kev Jones, forcing the pub’s owners into a rethink and, ultimately, into a two-week closure and refurbishment.

The result is a new-look Brigantes, which the pub’s owners call “bigger and brighter.” I must say I winced when I read that, ahead of the work, for brighter is not always better in the pub trade. Newer pubs in particular can sometimes feel too clinical, lacking the accrued charm that makes a pub homely.

Thankfully, such fears were misplaced here. Brigantes is certainly brighter than before but it is still unmistakeably a pub and an excellent one at that.

So what of the changes then? Most obviously, the pub has expanded into the empty building next door, creating a new area that is exclusively for diners until 9pm. That will appeal to those who visit for food more than drink, and it also eases the fight for space among staff and drinkers in the main room.

The back part of the original room has been de-cluttered, the partitions and booths on the right hand side being removed to make the room feel much larger. It removes the intimacy for small groups, but the new lay-out should lend itself more to events such as meet-the-brewer evenings.

The entire place has a new colour scheme, a slightly maritime dark blue and cream replacing the previous dark wood effect, and the bar has undergone a minor revamp, giving a better show to the spirits and bottled beers as well as to a new engraved mirror.

Satisfyingly from a beer-lovers’ viewpoint though, the cask and keg beers remain a central focus. And they remain unremittingly excellent.

Highlights this week have included Andromeda from Great Heck near Selby, winner of the Doncaster Beer Festival, and Dark Star’s 1910 Porter: a rich, smoky, pitch-black pint brewed using six malts. Both are likely to be gone by the time you read this, but if you’re popping in this weekend you can look forward to beers including Anarchy Smoke Bomb, Great Heck Golden Bull, Leeds Vienna Mild and hopefully Red Willow Ageless.

Or, if you feel like really pushing the boat out, then try the Goose Island Bourbon County in bottle. It’s not cheap, so discuss the style with the staff to ensure it is to your liking. But if it is, you’ll struggle to find a more remarkable beer anywhere.

@pintsofview