THERE was much wailing and gnashing of teeth when Thomas Wethered’s brewery in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, closed in 1988.

The brewery had been part of the Whitbread group since 1969, but had retained a significant degree of independence, and supplied the Thames Valley with a much-revered range of traditional beers.

Happily the town was without a brewery for only five years because in 1993 the Rebellion Brewery started production. Twenty years later it is firmly established, supplying more than 200 pubs. This week’s feature is Rebellion Red.

Mahogany in colour, it pours with a deep, foamy, cream-coloured head. The aroma is predominantly malty, with some caramel and a subtle, resinous hop note.

In the mouth it is both full-bodied and full-flavoured, with lots more malt, some roasted nuts and dark fruit, somewhat reminiscent of a fruit crumble.

There is a butterscotch richness too, and a soft, subdued sweetness through the mid palate, with a gentle hop bitterness in the aftertaste, and notes of tobacco and a peppery warmth at the finish.

A rounded and well-balanced beer, with all the elements understated, but the whole effect very appealing and satisfying.