In another of our occasional columns on whisky, EDDIE LUDLOW considers the art of blending.
BLENDED WHISKY. Two words, when used together, can strike fear or loathing into whisky drinkers, many of whom no longer consider blended whisky as offering anything new or exciting.
This is because of a few things, such as the fact that most blended whisky is ‘brand-based’ and aimed at a different market.
Also, much of the blended whisky on the market is bottled for the supermarkets at a pre-ordained price and therefore has to involve ‘corner-cutting’.
However, it does mean that some very good blended whisky does not get the fair shout it deserves.
We have tried a few this year which have done more than raise a few eyebrows. Indeed, in our last series of tastings around the UK, we pitted three blended whiskies against three single malts in a blind ‘taste-off’. The blends come out on top.
The premise of blended whisky is a simple one. Take one or more single malts and blend it with one or more single-grain whiskies.
Single malt is the traditional product of distilling in copper pot stills the fermented product (beer) of 100 per cent malted barley. Grain whisky, on the other hand is made in a continuous method – perfected in 1830 by an Irishman – from other grains, such as wheat or corn.
The result of this blend, as demonstrated by the following whiskies, can be very exciting, with flavour nuances and complexities simply not possible in a single malt whisky.
The Tweeddale Blend 3rd Batch, 12 years old, 46% ABV
This blend, lovingly crafted by Alasdair Day, was originally a recreation of a recipe of his grandfather’s he found and was sufficiently curious about. Most blends contain hundreds of casks from between 20 and 30 distilleries, whereas this is the product of only nine casks. Small batch blends of this nature are very rare.
This whisky is fresh and sweet with a lovely spicy smokiness which knits everything together perfectly. £42.17 Available from masterofmalt.com
Johnnie Walker, Double Black, 12 years old, 40 per cent ABV
Yes, this is certainly not as small a batch as The Tweeddale, and yes it is produced by the biggest drinks company in the world – Diageo – but to ignore it would be sheer folly.
The ‘regular’ Black Label is regarded as one of the best premium blends and this Double Black has upped the ante. With much more in the way of rich spice and smokey flavours, this is definitely firmly aimed at serious whisky drinkers.
This is because of a higher proportion of whiskies from Caol Ila and Talisker distilleries and also whiskies from more heavily charred or fresher casks.
The price also means you can afford to drink it as opposed to stare at it longingly. £32.95 Available from thewhiskyexchange.com
The Whisky Lounge’s long-running York Whisky Festival is in its 11th year and takes place at The Park Inn, North Street, on Saturday, October 26. Full and half day tickets can be bought at thewhiskylounge.com where you can also read more about blends versus malts.
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