So I know it hasn’t been all that long since I last reviewed a Brew By Numbers Beer, and I don’t ordinarily attempt to return to a brewery within such a short space of time for this column, but this one just begged to be tried.

I like a good saison, and while an awful lot of breweries are giving the style a shot at the minute, I feel like a lot of them are stepping wide of the mark; failing to embrace the delicacy and dryness that are the hallmarks of the style. Often when they’re flavoured with additional ingredients, these additions demolish all the character brought to the fore by the special yeasts used to ferment this type of ale, but Brew By Numbers are one of the few brewers who consistently avoid this pitfall.

Pouring a peachy pink, think grapefruit juice and you’re pretty much there, with a thin fuzzy white head, the aroma is characteristic saison. The lemon sherbert and rustic earthiness typical of the style are complimented by a zesty sherbert acidity, rhubarb, and a whiff of acetic sourness.

The flavour is a tale of two halves; both sweet and sour initially, the lactic sourness and dry chamomile flavour, which immediately fill the mouth and nose, are followed immediately by a floral pot pourri finish. Lingering in the wings are blackcurrant and aromatic lychee that rush to centre stage in an enduring aromatic finale.

• Recommended by Michael Bates, Trembling Madness, York