STRUISE are a bit special – their beers are inventive, but also hard to find on these shores.

Sometimes there is a glut of their legendary Pannepot spiced dark ale, and other times we can wait years before we see any (and trust me, it’s well worth the wait if you manage to snag some).

St Amatus is their counterpart beer to the infamously difficult to get hold of “best beer in the world” Westvleteren 12, cheekily billed as ‘Oostvleteren 12’.

Unlike its rival from across the way, this beer is a tad more experimental: both are quadruple ales, however St Amatus has been aged in a mixture of Woodforde’s Reserve and Pappy Van Winkle bourbon barrels. Interesting stuff indeed.

Pouring a deep, almost muddy, coffee brown with a thick butterscotch head, the initial aroma is treacley, with a hint of biscotti and bourbon vanilla. The whisky comes through only faintly, as a slight tang of apple carrying a gentle nudge of oxidation and spice.

Initially sweet and vanilla-y, a robust cocoa body erupts with cinnamon and cinder toffee. A warming bourbon finish, resplendent with glowing alcohol and apple pie notes, finishes up with oak, fudge and nutmeg on the way out.

Somewhat oily in texture with a gentle carbonation, this is a proper winter warmer from a fantastic Belgian brewery.

Recommended by Michael Bates, Trembling Madness, York