I'm always excited to see what Wild Beer Co, from Shepton Mallett, are up to these days. Not because, like so many modern brewers, their core range is often manipulated and shifting – a barrel-aged version of this, an alternatively hopped version of that, etc – but because they create interesting, new brews at a steady rate.

Redwood is the sort of beer that gets me genuinely excited: a red ale almost akin to the Flemish tradition (see Duchesse de Bourgogne or Rodenbach Grand Cru) but aged a full year with locally harvested wild yeasts and autumn fruits. This is taking the idea of terroir and running with it, and the result is fascinating.

Redwood pours the colour of toffee apples with a rich, caramel body and glowing ruby edges. There's very little head to speak of, but the aroma is unmistakeably lactic, with a delicate spicy nose and a wallop of sourdough.

Blackcurrant jam is cut through with an assertive acidity, lemon and grapefruit juice breaking apart the beer's rich caramel backbone. Kirsch and blueberries run across plum-bread, tinged with a slight acetic note, before finishing with raspberry sponge and rhubarb. Overall, this is a fantastically complex sour ale, perfectly in keeping with the autumn mood. Astounding stuff from one of the most exciting and innovative breweries in the country.

Recommended by Michael Bates, Trembling Madness, Stonegate, York