IT'S rare we have a beer come along that consistently runs out of stock, but the team at Beavertown have managed to make it happen with this beer: their American style pale ale, Gamma Ray.

Well hopped, but crisp and balanced, no matter how many cans or bottles of this we get into the Madness, we soon run out.

It doesn't help that this is the current 'go-to' beer for myself and at least half of the other shop staff; it's delightfully refreshing, yet retains enough intensity and complexity to keep us interested.

Pouring a clear pale copper with a thin white head that laces elegantly as the glass empties, it's as pretty to look at as its eye-catching packaging.

The aroma only adds to the experience here; lemon sherbet and icy mango sorbet provide a gentle reminder of this beer's hop character while leaving room for pilsner-crisp malt to whisp out of the glass.

Firm and light-bodied, with tight carbonation, tomato leaves and orange blossom accents highlight what is, essentially, the beer equivalent of chilled watermelon.

Crisp, clean, and extremely refreshing, with an elegant aromatic complexity – pomelo and bitter orange peel work alongside one another to perfume a dry, rich tea biscuit malt background.

Assertively bitter, but not beyond the realms of balance, cut grass and woody plum stones close proceedings atop walnut earthiness and spruce tips. It really is a challenge to just have the one, it's simply fantastic.

Recommended by Michael Bates, Trembling Madness, York