Roosters may not be a novel arrival in York – it’s only a short hop to Knaresborough from here after all – but this particular beer from this outfit is: Baby Faced Assassin was (I hope) an occasional release from Roosters, released in large-format bottles when the mood took them.

This citra-hopped IPA is now available in 330ml cans, brewed and filled on site to keep everything fresh and fragrant, and it really pays off for this beer.

Pouring brassy gold with a loose white head, the aroma is dominated by pineapple juice and the almost pheromone-laden headiness of mangoes. Orange juice and pears provide sharpness and delicacy respectively, and while this might read like some sort of insane hop-juice monstrosity, Baby Faced Assassin maintains its clarity throughout. Crisp, clean, and refreshing despite its complexity.

This delicacy and restraint follows through to the flavour, with almond paste and green peppercorns providing a spicy, aromatic base on which layers of developing mango and passion fruit flavour are built. An even, balanced bitterness rises with bramble fruitiness, cut grass, and marzipan holding together a perfectly executed sessionable IPA.

In short, somewhere between an American pale ale and drinking sorbet; extremely refreshing, fruity, and accessible all at once.

• Recommended by Michael Bates, Trembling Madness, Stonegate, York