THIS isn’t a precise recipe because it all depends on the variables: size of jar, how much you want to make and so on. But the results rise above the simple ingredients and add an intense savoury kick to all sorts of food.

You can either use the pulp, often recommended, or finely chop the rind too. Add to stews, sauces, rice dishes and more or less whatever tickles your taste buds. And they will be tickled, believe me. I bought two bags of lemons for £1 each from one of those bargain supermarkets. If you can’t get unwaxed lemons, scrub the skin of ordinary waxy lemons instead.

Ingredients

Ten to 15 juicy unwaxed lemons.

A bag of coarse sea salt: you won’t need it all, but have a decent amount to hand.

Peppercorns Two or three bay leaves.

Method

First sterilise a large jam jar or Kilner jar and the lid.

Boil a kettle and pour the water in and over the lid too. To be extra sure, dry both in an oven heated to moderate and then turned off. Take about ten of the lemons and make as if to cut into quarters, but still leaving the rind intact at the bottom.

Stuff a generous teaspoon or more of salt into each cut lemon and then squash into the prepared jar.

Keep going until the jar is full, pushing the lemons down firmly as you go.

Add the peppercorns and bay leaves, plus juice from some of the so far unused lemons.

The idea is to completely cover the fruit.

Seal tightly and store in a cupboard for three weeks, turning occasionally. Once open, keep in the fridge.