SIREN, in Finchampstead, have now been operating for two years, and in that time have already established themselves as one of the greats in the UK brewing scene.

It is perhaps fitting, therefore, that today’s beer arises from a collaboration with one of the very best breweries in the world: Vermont’s Hill Farmstead.

Love Of Work is a beer that wears its name on its sleeve – crafted with love to be a refreshing, fruity, pale ale with a carefully balanced addition of Earl Grey tea.

Pouring like cloudy lemonade, with a bleached straw body and light, frothy head of white foam, Love Of Work is at once rustic and refined. Aromas of lemon zest, mango, and blackberries rise from the glass, with a nudge of oatmeal, and some pithy bitterness.

The flavour begins with iced tea and lemon sherbet in the top, while a creamy, malt base adds wheat and plain macaroons.

From here the beer opens up into an expansive finish, laden with bergamot, hawthorn flowers, and wheat. Black pepper bitterness lies across beeswax and vanilla cream, while cold peaches and juicy apricots fill the senses.

A world-class beer from two world-class breweries.

Recommended by Michael Bates, Trembling Madness, York