TEMPEST Brewery’s Unforgiven has long been one of my favourites from their range of beers. It is an oak-smoked juniper ale in the same vein as a Scandinavian Sahti or Gottlandsdricke.

These traditional styles containing a mix of cereals, normally rye or other heritage grain varieties, derive much of their flavour from the being poured through juniper branches and the smoking of the malt. A strong yeast character is often present in these ales, too.

Unforgiven pours a very clear, deep umber with a rapidly dissipating thin, tan head.

The aroma is immediately apparent, even some distance from the glass, with plumes of sweet, sticky smoke billowing out of the glass. Strawberries, cloves, and black coffee all linger in the background, but this is very much a smoked ale first and foremost.

Smooth, sweet, and initially quite delicate – whisps of smoked malt and caramelised pecan nuts fill the mouth, increasing in intensity until a full-on rauchbier character is achieved.

Full butterscotch and cinder toffee provide contrast to the bonfire smoke, cinnamon, and nutmeg that continue to dominate the palate.

Gradually, an even-handed, herbaceous finish develops, with sage, hay, and lemon oil coming to the fore as the smoke recedes. Juniper is present more as an aromatic accent than as the leading flavour, as crisp malt and thyme close proceedings.

• Recommended by Michael Bates, Trembling Madness, York