OOH which is better – Syrah or Shiraz?
That may or may not be a trick question. They are of course the same grape, the difference generally being where they come from, with Syrah the traditional French tipple and Shiraz the New World version most commonly associated with Australia.
No matter what you call it, and even if the flavours from different parts of the world are distinct, it’s one of the darkest red wines, full-bodied and tannic, with healthy antioxidants too.
But which is better?
Well, the French ones are thought to be more elegant, smoke-flavoured and structured. Shiraz-labelled ones tend to be more fruit-driven, stronger in alcohol, less obviously tannic, and peppery rather than smoky. Cheaper versions can be nasty, especially from the New World, but good ones are a joy, particularly when at a welcoming price – and we’ve come across four here that are all different but lovely in their own right.
There are myths as to how Syrah first arrived in France but the small Hermitage hill of northern Rhone is widely seen as the grape’s spiritual home.
Not only is the terroir perfect but the vineyards are at the optimum angle to make the most of the sun, with the end product being a work of stylish beauty that often gets better with age.
The price of Hermitage wines can be somewhat off-putting – some bottles can set you back thousands – but arguably the best-value French Syrah are those from the neighbouring vineyards of Crozes-Hermitage, where the terroir is the same even if they don’t benefit from the perfect slopes of the illustrious hill.
Sainsbury’s have a bargain one on discount offer until August 29 – 2015 Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage, currently down from £9.50 to £8.50.
Blackcurrant and mulberry aromas abound, with a hint of liquorice and a rich finish making this a 13 per cent tipple great with full-flavoured red meat and cheeses.
But compare it to a good Aussie one – a St Hallett 2015 reserve Shiraz from the famed Barossa region, with fruit selected from across the valley.
This is different, not merely with the bright raspberry and plum aromas but more so the chocolate and vanilla oak influence - and a 15 per cent alcohol content.
It’s made in partnership with Waitrose and is down from £11.99 there to £8.99 - it tastes more expensive than this - until August 29.
The grape can also grow well in South Africa (where it's largely Syrah) and California (where it tends to be Shiraz).
Some makers believe it can take a bit more work to coax out flavours here, and that’s what they do with Bellingham The Bernard Series Syrah – a limited 2014 release from SA which is down from £13.50 to an excellent £11.50 at Sainsbury’s until August 29.
Named after Bernard Podlashuk, the trail-blazer who was the first in the Cape to release a single variety Syrah, its grapes are crushed using the age-old basket press method.
A powerful yet elegant 14 per cent wine, there is dark berry fruit tinged with floral suggestions, black and white pepper spice and a slightly smoky profile. It comes in a good heavy bottle too.
Lastly for today’s column is the Blackburn & James Shiraz from Cali, which uses the best grapes from across vintages. This is more fruit-driven but avoids being tart like some.
There’s blackberry and a touch of spice and at 14.5 per cent you very much get your money’s worth for £6.69, down from £8.99 until August 29, at Waitrose.
* Sainsbury’s is offering 25 per cent off when buying six or more bottles of wine, until August 29.
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