IT'S almost December and that means... no, not Christmas yet... it means stocking up on those after-dinner tipples that warm the cockles on those cold winter nights.

We're talking your ports, your brandies and, as we've recently began to enjoy again, the relatively less touristed Madeira, a fortified wine which, like us on nights like these, also benefits from a little heat.

We were tempted back to this Portuguese island intoxicant after seeing the Blandy's Duke of Clarence Madeira on offer at the Co-op, down from a bargain £12.99 to an even more bargain £10.99 until December 12.

Madeira the drink is named after the sub-tropical island from where it hails. It is similar to port, from the Portugal mainland, but with its own distinctive style, part of which came by chance – thanks to some kind of cock-up with a shipment.

Back in the age of exploration, these islands were a standard port of call for ships heading to the New World, and to prevent the wine on board from spoiling, grape spirits were added, fortifying it. Additionally, though, exposure to heat and movement on these long voyages altered the wine's flavour and texture – but this was only really noted when, for whatever reason, a shipment returned several months later.

The producers duly drank it, liked it a lot and had a Eureka moment.

Today's Madeira isn't quite made that way, ie: by sending it around the world in barrels on troublesome long voyages in the blazing sun aboard old wooden sailing ships, but the production process does include heating the wine for a good few months.

There are various styles of Madeira and they differ from port not only because of that heating but also the grapes, the negra mole being the predominant one here.

Madeira can also be dry (often served as a chilled aperitif) as well as the more usual sweet, and is also recommended with many high-brow cooking recipes.

The production process means it's pretty robust so can last a while after opening.

Blandy's Duke of Clarence Madeira, an 18 per cent drink, is made by the Blandy family - the only family of all the original founders of the Madeira wine trade to still own and manage their wine company.

Part of their range honouring English dukes, this tipple is the richest style of Madeira – full-bodied and soft textured and perfect to have with your desserts, or as a dessert in itself. Honey and raisins on the nose with a bit of toffee and burnt earth in the flavours. Certainly one for the Christmas pudding, not that we're mentioning Christmas yet.

Port, meanwhile, hails from the Douro Valley on the mainland, which takes us neatly on to a little tip: try the Altano Douro Red while it's down from £10.99 to £8.99 at Waitrose, until Tuesday.

It shows how this part of Portugal can make quality normal red wine, not just port.

An engaging 14 per cent fruity yet ethereal red blend, it is perfect with your winter warmer meals and very drinkable on its own too.