AS PRIME locations go in York you couldn’t get much better than smack bang opposite the city’s beautiful Minster.
And that’s precisely the view of the world the gigantic picture windows of Bennett’s cafe bistro command, positioned as it is at the cathedral end of High Petergate and in front of the majestic gothic structure.
It is probably best-known as a daytime place, good for a coffee and cake break, a nice sandwich or something for lunch. But for a good while now it has taken on a second identity on an evening as a bistro and that’s when we chose to visit.
Once through the door, the restaurant is not large and the huge windows account for much of the wall space inside, what’s left is tastefully decorated in a dark green and cream colour scheme set off by mirrors and paintings in gold frames giving it a homely feel.
When we arrived on a grey Friday evening the place was already fairly busy. We were at first seated close to the back and away from that beautiful view, but no sooner had we ordered our drinks - a bottle of the house white, a French blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Ugni-blanc (£15.50) and some bottled water (£2.50) than a prime spot became free front of house and we were asked if we’d like to move in to the window.
Relocated, we settled down to the menu which, though not huge, certainly offers plenty of variety. The choice of five starters ranged in price from the tiger prawns in garlic and chilli butter, £7.95, to the soup of the day at £5.60. I chose the pressed terrine of Yorkshire ham hock, apple chutney and ciabatta crisps (£6.95).
As the vegetarian Jordan had the option of a couple of the starters, a poached pear and Yorkshire blue cheese salad with toasted walnut dressing (£6.25) or the soup which when we were there was carrot and pepper (£5.60).
The terrine arrived and was a tasty combination of prime pink pork along with tangy chutney and crunchy shavings of crisp bread topped off with pea shoots. The pork and apple were obvious partners and worked well and the meat was delicious.
Carrot and peppers were not a combination Jordan had come across before, and he said the carrots came though slightly more strongly and the seasoning was just right and really let the flavours sing.
Moving on to the mains you get a real feeling that local produce plays and important role here - with a handy list of suppliers provided as a footnote - including Sykes farm in Wetherby for meat, Simon Baynes of York for fruit and veg and Hodgson’s fishmongers from Hartlepool.
Again the choice was sparing with just the six meals to choose from, but each sounded a possible contender with roast chicken breast with roast onion cream (£15.95), vying with ribeye steak and chips (£21.95) and Gressingham duck and colcannon potatoes (£16.95). In the end I plumped for the grilled smoked haddock with leek risotto and parsley oil (£15.95).
When it arrived I got a good-sized piece of fish perched on top of a mound of creamy risotto rice run through with finely chopped leek and surrounded by the parsley juice. It all came served with a bowl of seasonal veg.
The haddock was beautifully cooked and easily flaked in to pieces with not a bone in sight. The smokey taste worked very well with the risotto and the herby parsley juice.
In terms of main courses vegetarians are not spoiled for choice there being but one option. However in all other respects Jordan said he felt like he was very spoiled indeed. He had homemade gnocchi, lightly pan fried with sweet potato (£14.25). The gnocchi had a nice slightly crunchy bite, yet were soft in the middle. There were thin strips of pickled red onion sprinkled over the top which added a lovely sharp zing to every other mouthful and added much appreciated interest.
We were both glad to have saved room for dessert because the selection was very tempting indeed, and in the end Jordan went for spiced rice pudding with calvados compote (£5.95) while I had dark chocolate ganache with kirsch cherries (£5.95).
In the pudding the spices were light and still let the creamy taste and texture really come through and the calvados compote was divine, not too sharp and not too sweet and the perfect accompaniment.
The ganache was mouth-wateringly marvellous, indulgient, rich and dark and the boozy fruit on top just added to the impact.
The service was excellent and timely and in all our bill came to £54.65 for food and £72.65 accounting for drinks.
Bennett's will never be the least expensive meal you eat in York but the prices are very good when the quality of the food, surroundings and service is factored in.
Bennett’s, 30-32 High Petergate, York
Phone 01904 655344
Website bennetscafeandbistro.weebly.com
Food: 5/5 Superb
Ambience: 4/5 Intimate
Service: 4/5 Attentive
Value: 4/5 Good
Reviews are conducted independently and paid for by The Press
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