HERE'S something I wrote back in March last year, after tasting a riesling from the Alsace: "Klur Riesling Cuvée Katz 2004 is dry and crisp with citrus fruit, honey notes and lots of minerality. If you have enough patience to store this away for a few years, your palate will be rewarded."

For the record, I rated the wine 16/20.

Here's an admission - I was wrong. Your palate will be rewarded, but you need only have waited a few months, rather than years.

I sampled the same wine again recently, at a tasting put on by local vintners HC Wines. To be honest, when I tasted the wine in March I thought it was a little dumb, but now the wine has matured into something much more flavoursome and complex, to the extent that I would rate it as 18/20. It has the characteristic kerosene notes of a mature riesling and good length.

This is just further proof that there are no hard-and-fast rules when it comes to how long to cellar wines. The only sure fire way to find out if a wine is ready to drink is to periodically open a bottle and taste it. That's no great hardship now, is it?

I recommend you try these two excellent reds from HC Wines, too. I love the smooth, powerful, Italian, Capitel della Crosara Ripasso Valpolicella Classico 2004. Full of cherry, almonds, hot spices, liquorice, cocoa, dried fruits, and with a long, long finish. It's natural acidity makes it a great partner to fatty meat dishes.

Or head to the Languedoc for a great value and very approachable organic wine. Domaine de Malavielle Charmille vin de pays d'Oc 2005 is mainly merlot but blended with cabernet franc and mourvèdre. Soft, spicy, plum and red fruit flavours abound.

HC Wines sells by cases of 12 bottles, which may be mixed. Ring John Hattam on 01904 421345, mobile 07802 641183 or email john@hcwines.co.uk for details. Or check out www.hcwines.co.uk to view the wine list online.

  • Klur Riesling Cuvée Katz 2004, £7.75 from HC Wines 18/20
  • Capitel della Crosara Ripasso Valpolicella Classico 2004, £8.95 from HC Wines 18/20
  • Domaine de Malavielle Charmille vin de pays d'Oc 2005, £5.95 from HC Wines 18/20