Chef Andrew Pern reveals Yorkshire's best kept secrets

Andrew Pern established himself as a leading Yorkshire chef and restaurateur at his Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome - which was badly damaged in a fire but is expected to reopen this autumn. He also has his satellite restaurants, The Star Inn the City in York and the Star in the Harbour at Whitby, his hometown. He is married and the father to seven children.

List your top three things about Yorkshire

The three best things about Yorkshire are: the people for their warmth, their ways and humour; the seasonal food and produce which, for a chef, provides a constant source of inspiration; and the amazing scenery, for its diversity from the coast to the moors, dales and vales, as well as the industrial hubs too.

City, countryside or coast?

The coast is a firm favourite. I was born in Whitby and spent a lot of time as a child in Sandsend, where my grandparents lived. I had friends in Runswick Bay and went to school in Robin Hood’s Bay. We actually lived slightly inland along the Esk Valley and it is that view looking down towards the North Sea coast from the moors that still gives me the warm feeling of coming home.

Robin Hood's Bay

Is Yorkshire an inspirational place to do business?

As a Michelin-starred chef, born and brought up in Yorkshire, it offers a fantastic pantry of food: fish and shellfish from the depths of the dark blue North Sea, the purple heathered moors and local estates offering fantastic game, and the Vale of York for its soft fruits, vegetables, asparagus and the like, and the farmland surrounding Harome for the lamb, pork and poultry, not forgetting the Yorkshire Triangle for its spectacular sticks of world-famous rhubarb.

France is known for its ‘cuisine terroir’ and I think we have a brilliant equivalent here.

Yorkshire's best kept secret?

Just a few miles from us in Harome is Kirkdale Cave, where remains of animals, like hippopotamus, elephant, hyena and bison were discovered, apparently the northernmost discovery of a hippopotamus! None of these have been sited recently, to my knowledge, but it adds an interesting aspect to the walk around the area of Kirkdale, where Saint Gregory’s Minster is located.

Your favourite fact about Yorkshire?

That Egton Gooseberry Show is the oldest surviving Gooseberry Show in the country. Egton is very close to where I grew up and we always called gooseberries ‘goosegogs'. It’s not only a favourite fact but a favourite seasonal ingredient, which appears every year on our menus.

Yorkshire gooseberries - hard to beat

What is a perfect Yorkshire weekend?

Friday ‘teatime’ would be with friends and family early doors with a few drinks and dinner somewhere local, then on Saturday, possibly shooting. I’ve recently taken up this sport and enjoy both game or clays and everything that goes with it: being out in the fresh air, the banter, adrenalin of the sport and, of course, the social side of wining and dining, especially by the fire at a local pub. Also as a chef, it gives me the chance to see the whole ‘circle of life’: game in its natural environment, through to seeing it on the plate in my restaurants and knowing the story behind it.

Sunday is always a family day, so maybe a walk on the coast at Sandsend near Whitby or Robin Hood’s Bay; both are favourites with plenty of fresh air and fun with the children, followed by fish and chips at the pier and trying to keep the youngest of my seven children out of the amusements on Whitby seafront… although, secretly, I quite like reliving my own childhood doing the same as they now do!

Which Yorkshire folk would you love to invite a dinner party – and why?

Presuming that it would be a dinner party for eight to ten people, I’d like my guests to dine on a North Sea shellfish platter to start with, so I’m hoping Captain Cook and Marco Pierre White can both make it – CC for his maritime links, stories of far-flung lands and his roots in my hometown of Whitby too. We’ll go easy on the salt with his food, though. Hopefully, Marco, hailing from Leeds and the youngest chef in Britain to gain three Michelin stars, can sort out the crab, langoustines, lobster and oysters with aioli and homemade mayonnaise, and that covers the platter.

For main course, I think we’d have roast pheasant or partridge with juniper-creamed cabbage, blue cheese, bacon and black truffle mash. I hope this would please David Hockney, the world-famous artist, who is inspired by the rolling Yorkshire Wolds for much of his work, and that he would share some great stories along with Dame Judi Dench. The pair of them would keep Marco under control, I’m sure. For a bit of entertainment, I would also ask Ed Sheeran, originally from Hebden Bridge; he seems to be doing OK for himself. Maybe, ‘titter ye not’, Frankie Howerd could come along. He would be a good laugh.

Yorkshire artist David Hockney

Then on to pudding. I think it would have to be baked ginger parkin with rhubarb ripple ice cream and hot, spiced syrup. Parkin would be fitting, in case Guy Fawkes turns up and very apt for a bonfire night traditional ‘bite’. He hails from York, so not too far to come and I’ll keep him away from the fiery chef to avoid any ‘fireworks’

If it was a clear, crisp night, it would be nice to take a cheeseboard and some port out on to the terrace, look up at the moon and catch up with my last, but not least guest, Helen Sharman, the first British astronaut to go the moon to regale some stories. Hopefully that should break the atmosphere, if any, between Marco and Guy. Ha! Ha! I have always liked the big open skies of Yorkshire, day or night, but there aren’t many better places to relax than the evenings in the countryside. The stars and moon always shine bright in Harome, all the better shared with some glamour from Fran, my wife, a Yorkshire lass. Now that should be a proper party!

Most surprising fact about yourself?

I find it difficult to believe now myself, especially having just clocked up 25 years at the helm of The Star Inn at Harome, but had I not become a chef, I would have considered joining the armed forces or a career as a professional rugby player. What a different life that would have been!