Rockliffe Hall, Darlington - best spa hotel in north?

The 19th-century country house pays homage to the celebrated children's author in a Wonderland-themed outdoor play area for younger visitors.

But for adults, the luxury resort - which also has a golf course and tennis courts - offers a 'Wonderland' of a different kind.

Enter Rockliffe, and you will find your every need met - if not exceeded. Well, that was our experience during our overnight luxury spa break.

Our room not only had a flatscreen TV on the wall - but one in the ensuite so you could watch TV while relaxing in a giant bubble bath (with Molton Brown miniatures generously provided).

There was a Nespresso machine as well as mini kettle, and the biscuit caddy was replenished during the evening turn down - guaranteeing snacks for a midnight feast.

In the Spa Garden (bookable for an extra £25 per person) free water and fresh fruit are available - but alcoholic drinks can be purchased too. I treated myself to a cold glass of Veuve Clicquot Rosé (£14) - and I am happy to report it was nothing like the magic potion drunk by Alice in Wonderland. The only 'other world' I visited that afternoon was one where your body was pummelled by soothing hot tub jets and the fierce heat of the Rockliffe sauna and steam rooms.

For something more refreshing, you can relax on loungers by the indoor pool and sip a fresh fruit smoothie from the poolside Juice Bar (£4.50 each). We enjoyed a berry mix drink as well as a tropical one featuring coconut, pineapple, mint and lime.

Spa garden at Rockliffe Hall

A range of treatments are available at the spa - it is advised to book in advance - and my husband and I arranged to have the Mud Rasul Ritual (£30 per person). For this, we were guided into our own chamber, complete with sauna and shower and changing area. Inside, a selection of bowls were laid out, one with salt, another with thick, sticky, dark brown mud. Next to it was a bottle of body oil - and a large jug of iced water with two glasses. Granted, not quite a Mad Hatters' Tea Party, but an unusual assortment none the less.

There is definitely a touch of the bizarre to a session in the Rasul - and not just because you are invited to strip off and don a pair of elasticated paper pants big enough to fit Giant Haystacks. The salt, which has an oily residue, is rubbed on the skin first, to exfoliate, then the soft mud is smeared all over.

We found this hilarious - and even more so when we went into the steam room and the mud became slippy in the heat. My husband was unable to lie down on the tiled bench: "I keep sliding off!" he cried. After 20 minutes in the heat, the sauna turns into a rain chamber; it is as if you have been caught in a Monsoon downpour. It does the trick, though, of washing all the brown mud off your body. You can finish the job off thoroughly in the adjoining shower, and complete the body ritual by applying the gorgeous body oil to your skin, which now feels super soft (and smells divine).

Nearby, there is a relaxation lounge to savour the peace and quiet a little longer.

Our break included dinner in the hotel's Orangery restaurant. We enjoyed a pre-dinner drink in the neighbouring cocktail bar before setting down for the three-course a la carte meal (£70 per head; a tasting menu is also available at £95).

Inside The Orangery restaurant at Rockliffe Hall

The setting is quite relaxed - the Orangery is like a giant greenhouse - but don't be deceived. You know this is a serious foodie place when the staff walk with one hand tucked behind their backs and the sommelier comes over to ask you which sort of wine you like.

My answer to that is 'white' and 'dry' - and hope she doesn't recommend anything that would require a second mortgage because I spotted some bottles on the wine list that were around £2,000 each!

Luckily, she suggests a Muscadet - and at £35, that seemed reasonable. It was good too - with a slight fizz on the palate and a clean, mineral acidity that cut through the richness of our meal, which began with a plate of homemade sourdough and a truffle macaron amuse bouche that was a little pop of heaven in the mouth. Our starter of scallops with noodles and a rich, savoury ramen broth was declared by my husband as "one of the nicest things I'd ever eaten".

He had to repeat that exact sentence again for his main course, salt beef - which was tender and full of flavour - with a spoonful of smooth mashed potato. My fish course was less of a success, on account of the halibut being a thin filet and pan fried for a moment or so too long. The chocolate pave - a set mousse on top of a sponge, served with raspberry - was a pleasant finish to the meal.

Portions are small - in that Mastercheffy way where presentation is everything - which did mean we weren't over full and could do justice to breakfast the next morning, which was a generous offer of a continental buffet as well as a hot option cooked to your liking. We took the full English accompanied by fresh coffee then stretched our legs in the grounds - including a visit to the walled garden, where many items are grown for use in the kitchen.

On the way, we passed the Wonderland-inspired children's playground and reflected that our stay at Rockliffe had truly been an escape into another world - for 24 hours at least!

If you are familiar with the luxury North Yorkshire hotel spas at Swinton Park and Rudding Park then add Rockliffe to your list of 'must-visits'. You won't be disappointed.

As for being the best spa in the north - well, it has to be a contender. Wonder what Alice would make of it!

Find out more at: rockliffehall.com