Legacy at The Grand, York - tasting menu review

York's only five-star hotel is suitably named, housed as it is in one of the city's finest buildings: the former railway headquarters on Station Rise.

Since its opening in 2010, The Grand has built a reputation for its luxurious interiors and top-notch service.

The newest jewel in its crown is Legacy, a small and intimate restaurant serving a tasting menu aimed at passionate foodies.

With the eight-course menu priced at £120 (and matching wine pairings starting at £60 per person), this is serious money for serious food.

Opened just a few weeks ago, The Press was invited by head chef Ahmed Abdalla to sample the experience.

Our table for two was booked for 7pm but we were instructed to come at 6.45pm to enjoy a pre-dinner drink.

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In reality, that was a glass of English sparkling wine, poured by restaurant manager and vintage sommelier Derek Scaife, who told us about his soft spot for this drink and how it could easily compete with Champagne for the discerning diner.

It was a great start - the wine was delicious; full of flavour and not overly dry. It was a perfect match for our amuse-bouche, or rather amuse-bouches, as we were presented with a trio of faultless mini appetisers which set the standard for the rest of the evening: an ice-cool oyster with sea vegetable and a tangy vinaigrette; a wafer-thin cone filled with smoked cod roe and, my favourite, a teeny tartlet with ham hock and pea.

Chef Ahmed Abdalla at Legacy at the Grand York with his team (Image: Supplied)

At that point Ahmed appeared at our table - and we were able to pass on our thanks for the invite and our praise for the culinary show so far.

Legacy has been designed with the diner at its heart: just 26 covers in a beautiful wooden-panelled room where all the tables are set around a centre piece where Derek tends to his impressive wine store. It's both a great place to people watch, but also to have a romantic tête-à-tête.

It was full on our visit, on a Wednesday evening.

My dining partner had chosen the vegetarian menu, which only varied on three occasions from the main menu.

And so the evening unfolded. The eight courses were in fact 11, when you consider the amuse-bouches and the petit fours that were served with my peppermint tea along with a 'surprise' cheese plate. The dishes arrive at a relaxed pace, affording plenty of time to savour the wine that Derek pours to match each one.

The veloute was the poshest potato soup I'd ever eaten, thick and creamy and flavoured with oak-smoked cheddar. We were encouraged to clean our bowls with the brioche-like Parkerhouse roll which came with a moreish goats butter with chive and dill.

As the evening progressed, any fears we would not manage the entire menu faded as we saw the size of the portions. Most afforded just three or so bites - just enough to really focus and take in the flavours and textures of the dish and marvel at the kitchen team's craft.

From the barbecued langoustine, served in three teeny segments as well as inside a single ravioli, to the finger of salt-baked celeriac elevated to heavenly status by the addition of black garlic, truffle and hazelnut, nothing disappointed.

Next came a lovely piece of halibut in a rich mousseline sauce with little crunchy pieces of cauliflower as a contrasting note. To follow came a dish of Yorkshire lamb, the meat sourced locally inline with many of the restaurant's ingredients.

And so to the puddings. By this point it was after 9.30pm; my dining partner had reluctantly left as she had a train to catch and had missed out on the rest of the meal.

We hadn't banked on our date at Legacy being so lengthy, but if I tell you I actually left for home at 10.30pm, take note!

Don't expect any indulgent chocolate puddings here. Ahmed told us he likes to serve something light to finish with. And it is a wise decision coming after so many rich dishes.

And so I had a small bowl of strawberries, soft and squidgy from being bathed in a frothy syrup enlivened by chamomile and lavender.

'Grand Honey' came next - quenelles of honeyed panna cotta and ice cream. The honey, informed Derek, came from the hotel's own beehives on its roof. You can't get more local than that.

And just when I thought it was all over, Derek emerged with a 'surprise' - a cheese plate with homemade crackers and a piece of honeycomb cut ceremoniously in front of me along with fantastic cheeses including Lincolnshire Cote Hill blue and Britain's own brie, Baron Bigod. The honeycomb and brie is a nod to celebrated York restaurant Skosh (where Ahmed once worked) and where this combination is also served.

It was a fantastic final flourish - or so I thought! Having ordered a peppermint tea to aid digestion, it was accompanied by a trio of mini delights, including a fruity jelly, a piece of fudge and a warm Madeleine.

I polished the lot off, feeling sorry for my friend who had missed the grand finale of this unique dining experience and a night to remember.

Find out more at thegrandyork.co.uk/legacy