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Grand Hotel, York
Meet Kevin Bonello the new executive head chef at The Grand, York who brings his Michelin star experience to the hotel’s talented culinary team.
When Kevin Bonello set out on a search for a worthy destination for the next chapter of his culinary journey, the celebrated chef’s eye fell on the iconic hotel The Grand, York. After two decades presiding over a leading hospitality brand in his native Malta, he swapped the walled city of Mdina for the walled city of York.
Bonello couldn’t be more pleased. “I considered many possibilities, but when I arrived in York I fell in love with the city and historic architecture and felt immediately at home,” he says.
On his appointment by Splendid Hospitality Group as executive chef to the award-winning five-star property, he adds: "I am thrilled to be a part of the continued success of this iconic hotel and lead the culinary team to new heights. The Grand’s commitment to showcasing the best produce in the region, alongside the talented individuals already pushing the quality of food, really excites me.”
Michelin recognition
With an impressive culinary background spanning over two decades, including as culinary director at Michelin-starred restaurant De Mondion, Bonello, 45, is working with Ahmed Abdalla, head chef of Legacy, the hotel’s Michelin-favourited restaurant for February 2023, and Marc Williams, chef director of The Cookery School at The Grand.
Bonello served as the culinary director at Xara Collection for an impressive 21 years. During his tenure, he played a pivotal role in establishing Xara Collection as a leading hospitality brand. Bonello and his team were awarded a Michelin star – one of only five restaurants in Malta.
His impressive culinary journey began as an apprentice chef at Ristorante Cosmana Navarra in Rabat, Malta. After further studies his dedication and talent were quickly recognised, leading him to receive 18 months of rigorous training in London at the Berkeley Hotel and various Michelin-starred restaurants.
Since his appointment to The Grand, York, he has already made his mark. “There is a wonderful culture of British food that I respect, and impressive Yorkshire produce on hand,” he says.
“I come from a Mediterranean culture that is sophisticated and celebrates natural ingredients, and I have been working with the chefs here to develop the menus further.
“For example, in The Rise Restaurant we have introduced the Grand Beef Wellington, and risotto and pasta plates, and these are favourites on the evening menu.”
The Rise Restaurant, Terrace & Bar, was already the holder of Best Afternoon Tea 2022 by Condé Nast Johansens Award for Excellence, but Bonello has elevated the menu further. “We now serve five more sophisticated ‘sandwiches’. They include a Yorkshire brie royal with artichoke almond pesto on sourdough, and a poached salmon and onion bread roulade. Our black pudding sausage roll is a big favourite amongst diners.”
Bonello reveals that he has led three restaurants with a Michelin star, and this is one of his goals for The Grand, York’s fine dining restaurant, Legacy. “I am in no doubt that Legacy is on course for a star,” he adds. “I am working with Legacy head chef Ahmed Abdalla towards this through continually striving for excellence and elevating dishes.”
Christmas plans
Finally, Bonello reveals his secret Christmas present to delight guests of all ages. “I am planning to install a huge gingerbread house, created with rock sugar, in the hotel entrance that will bring a festive smile to children and adults. I love it here in York and am looking forward to my first Christmas here – you can expect some great festive dining too.”
The award-winning hotel features 207 rooms alongside an intimate and relaxing spa, state-of-the-art The Cookery School, world-class event facilities and exclusive food and beverage outlets including Legacy for dinner Thursday – Sunday, The Rise Restaurant, Terrace & Bar for breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner and The 1906 cocktail bar.
Review of Legacy at The Grand, York
By Catherine Turnbull
It is a year since Legacy opened with head chef Ahmed Abdalla at the helm and it’s fair to say that since I dined then in the stylish oak-panelled room with its sofa-style banquettes, my tastebuds have been ruined. That is to say, other dishes served in the intervening months haven’t come close to the intense flavours and deliciousness of these aptly named tasting plates.
I’m excited to hear that the dishes are more intricate and have evolved, but that comes with hope that they haven’t changed too much. Once seated Abdalla welcomes us with a warm and personal introduction to the dishes and some ‘snacks’. We have an oyster each with a slurp of tangy, salty ponzu sauce cradled in a porcelain shell, pea and potato with delicate wasabi, a show-stopping salt aged beef tartare in beef fat, with caviar added at the table by Abdalla, and a lacy squid ink tuile.
We have barely started, and my taste buds have been restored, and then rebooted again with a piquant Whitby crab with avocado, apple, livened up with calamansi citrus fruit. The moreish pillowy parkerhouse rolls with a cultured, and a herb butter, I have yearned for over the last year appear.
Derek Scaife the restaurant manager and master sommelier sweeps in with perfectly matched wine pairings and tasting notes and new assistant Darren brings dishes with descriptions served with fun and flair.
The satisfying and earthy salt baked celeriac with black garlic dish is a permanent favourite and is lighter with summer truffle and hazelnut. The spring lamb now comes with aubergine and yoghurt, in place of last year’s turnip and courgette.
Desserts are scrumptious. The Annabel’s strawberry with honey from the Grand’s rooftop hives, basil and balsamic is sensational. Newly welcomed is a fruity Valrhona Manjari 64% chocolate dessert with cherry, whisky and coffee.
Fear not, all changes to the dishes enhance them. That star can’t be far off the horizon.
The Signature Tasting Menu of eight courses is served: Thursday – Sunday and costs £120 per person with a choice of three wine pairings at £60, £90 or £105. The new five-course Taste of Legacy Menu is available on: Thursday, Friday, Sunday from 6.30pm – 8.30pm.
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