I have heard so many good things about Legacy at The Grand, so an invite to experience its latest menu was too good an offer to refuse.

A few weeks back the fine dining restaurant that opened almost two years ago, relaunched its tasting menu to reflect York’s history.

The three AA Rosette restaurant has the 5-course stone (£90), the 7-course water (£110) and the 9-course Steel (£130), which we were having.

Among the drinks are wine flights at £60, £90 and £120, depending on the quality of the wine.

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But we started off with bubbles after opening a large bottle of sparkling mineral water (£4.50).

My old vegetarian schoolmate, whose wife was again attending Weightwatchers that Thursday evening, started off with a ‘very pleasant’ non-alcoholic sparkling Riesling.

I enjoyed a cool, crisp glass of Gusbourne Blanc de Blanc sparkling from Kent (£15), which showed our bubbles can be as good as French Champagne.

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First came what the menu called ‘snacks’ which featured a ‘pillow’ of either yoghurt, honey and pomegranate or duck tartare and miso mayonnaise.

There was also beetroot tartlet or one with smoked eel crème fraiche.

In addition were ‘eggs’ containing fermented tomato, smoked aubergine puree, cheese crumble and basil oil.

The creaminess of the yoghurt was appreciated, with pickled beetroot that gave this starter an edge.

I couldn’t always work out my flavours, but they were very pleasant taste sensations, smooth and creamy, with the basil oil giving a definite ‘mmmm.’

All was presented exceptionally well, with amazing attention to detail, and tasting lovely.

With the bread that followed, the fennel sourdough had a most wonderful, excellent, flavour, the cultured goats butter was loved by us both, but we weren’t too sure of the black, garlic butter.

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We both thoroughly enjoyed the shitake mushroom custard with pickled radishes and samphire, and ensured the bowls were clean.

A non-alcoholic mojito matched this dish extremely well, as did my Argentinian white. I had never had an Argentinian white before, but plenty of their red, as I am sure you know!

Next came a vinho verde from Portugal to go with my Orkney scallop, which was served two ways- as a tartare and also seared with a coconut foam and caviar on top. This was delicious but too easy to eat. It was gone in seconds.

My mate had heritage carrots that came with a soy sauce. The carrots were cooked to perfection and the soy sauce was most delightful, with a sweetness.

More seafood followed for me, choosing to have things you don’t normally have at home or elsewhere if dining out. I loved the butter poached Whitby lobster served on a korma glaze with squash underneath. An absolute treat, not too strong a flavour, but my favourite of all the courses, and again you ensure barely a drop is wasted.

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The vegetarian equivalent was a date puree, featuring grapes, a water cress foam and was matched with a peaches and cream mocktail (£7). This was a great combination of savoury and sweetness that grows on you.

A most colourful spectacle was the monkfish tail, which came with Chantenay carrots, African spice and pickled grapefruit. Another one to get your spoon out to empty the dish.

This was served with a delightful German Pflaz Reisling, which fully bodied, matched the monkfish beautifully.

My mate had Celeriac nosotto, which came with Sussex Cheese, red onion and had a smokey bacon flavour. That was his favourite of the night, with him admitting that since becoming a vegetarian some years back, he does miss bacon!

That was matched with Elderflower and Strawberry Cocktail. Again another great match, showing the sommelier knows what he is doing.

Next came halibut on a sourdough crumb, with courgette pieces, tomato and a fishbone broth, which was tender and flavoursome. This was matched well with a soft-medium Gruner Veitliner from Hungary.

My mate had a stuffed onion, which he says was very complicated, very clever, and well matched with his mocktail.

Next came buttermilk, with melon balls, turmeric and lemon sorbet, just ideal to cleanse the palette for the stronger flavours to come.

This came with a non-alcoholic negroni and for me, a chenin blanc botrytis from Anjou in France.

I enjoyed a Madagascan chocolate mousse with hazelnut filling, which also used the white part of the cocoa bean for an ice cream, which had a rich intense chocolatey taste.

My mate is not into desserts, so he went straight on to the cheeses, which included King Charles III tripe cheddar, a Cote Hill Blue and others, served with different biscuits, preserved watermelon, and honeycomb from the 40,000 bees that live on the hotel roof, a special treat.

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By this time, and despite the best efforts of the staff, I had missed my train, so we stayed for another mocktail and I finished off with a 20-year-old port from Pocas, which was rich and smooth and complemented the cheese beautifully.

My mate loved the pecan nuts as well, but by this time I was stuffed, so I gave them a miss, though I did try a couple of the sweet treats head chef Ahmed Abdalla presented us with.

Naturally, we told him what a great time we had had, one we will always remember, with gorgeous food of such high-calibre. I did mention I had dined at Rise, the Grand’s other restaurant, just two days previously, enjoying the new surf and turf special, which you can read about later. I also mentioned there were many other things on Rise’s menu that would be great to eat, including simpler things like its Shepherds Pie, Tiramisu and Black Forest Gateau.

It had been a superb night in Legacy, in relaxed, elegant and beautiful surroundings, served by friendly, efficient and knowledgeable staff, who so clearly enjoy their work.

Yes, the Grand had been very grand and a grand time was had by all! And leaving most delightfully satisfied, what a fine Legacy of a recommended evening!