Maxine Gordon enjoys a visit around the Lakes - by foot, boat and bus, taking in Windermere and Grasmere
HERE is a challenge should you choose to accept - have a day out around the Lakes, but leave your car behind.
This was the brief from our contact in Cumbria tourism who had invited us to the Windermere area for a late-summer weekend break.
We had two bases near Bowness: on the Saturday night we stayed at the charming 5-star arts and crafts B&B Lindeth Fell, then moved to its sister hotel, the luxury Storrs Hall, a grand Georgian mansion on the banks of England's largest lake.
We drove from York to Bowness in two and a half hours - if you wanted to go totally car-less, there is a train station at Windermere and Stagecoach operates a regular and reliable bus service around the area.
On arrival we visited Blackwell - arguably one of the most beautiful houses in the UK. It was built in 1901 in the arts and crafts style pioneered by William Morris which follows the ethos of creating goods by hand, inspired by nature. Blackwell was commissioned by wealthy brewing family, the Holts, from Manchester. The architect was Mackay Hugh Baillie Scott, a contemporary of Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Anyone who has seen Mackintosh's Hill House built at Helensburgh near Glasgow in 1904 will spot similarities between the two, from the dark wood of the hall to the bright white open-plan design of the living space, with decorative plaster work, stained glass and pretty tiles. It is a complete artistic venture and a joyful experience to visit.
After being wowed at Blackwell, we were in for even more of a treat at Lindeth Fell. Dating from 1909, the house was built by locally renowned arts and crafts architects Pattinson's. Cue wooden hallways and staircases, stained glass windows and tiled fireplaces. Hospitality was second-to-none, and we enjoyed drinks and dinner in the newly renovated bar and restaurant.
Our 'go green' mission started the following morning. After fuelling up on breakfast, we picked up a map from reception and began the 30-minute walk towards Bowness pier to catch one of the regular boats run by Windermere Lake Cruises north to Ambleside.
We sat on the upper deck and took in the breathtaking scenery during the 30-minute trip, enjoying the commentary along the way.
On disembarking, we could have easily spent the rest of the day in pretty Ambleside, visiting its many shops, cafes and restaurants and its Armitt Museum which tells the story of life in Cumbria.
But we wanted to venture further afield, so headed for the nearest bus stop and caught the Stagecoach 555 north to Grasmere.
The short 20-minute or so journey must be one of the loveliest in England. It travels through winding and narrow tree-lined Lakeland country roads and hugs the outline of Grasmere water.
We had been to the Lakes many times, but never visited Grasmere. It was time to make amends. First stop was the Grasmere Gingerbread shop, right next to St Oswald's Church, where celebrated poet and champion of the Lake District, William Wordsworth and his family members are buried.
Don't be put off by the queue for the gingerbread shop. It moves swiftly. Inside, it feels like you have stepped back into Victorian times. Staff are dressed in aprons and bonnets and the bestseller is the famous gingerbread, which is still made to a secret recipe dating back to 1854. It is totally unique and described as a cross between a cake and a biscuit. But that doesn't really capture the reality. It has a bit of bite, then becomes chewy, like a toffee, and is topped with a light ginger crumb. It is super tasty and moreish: you have been warned! You can also buy a range of locally-made preserves, sweets and treats. We came away with jars of Rum Butter and Ginger Curd, as well as some Gingerbread Fudge and a bottle of Ginger Cordial.
For more local shopping, visit Grasmere Gather, just opposite the church and gingerbread shop, which sells products from Cumbrian makers and also has a cafe.
If you want something more substantial to eat, Tweedies is a popular spot, with the likes of home made soups and roast dinners on the menu. The weather had turned during our visit, and we were grateful for the warming, hearty food, to warm us up.
Now raining, we returned to Bowness by bus then walked back to Lindeth Fell, brollies in hand, where we had left the car.
Next stop was Storrs Hall, a short drive away, with a Lakeside setting to take your breath away. Our room was spectacular with views across Windermere from the bedroom and bathroom! Luxury was the keyword here: and dinner in the hotel bistro didn't disappoint. After a refreshing and utterly delicious Storrs gin cocktail featuring gin, Cointreau and grapefruit (a new combination for me that I'd thoroughly recommend) we enjoyed a king prawn cocktail and baked scallops to start, followed by the most tender Chateaubriand and perfect Jenga-sized chips. We shared a pile of white chocolate and strawberry profiteroles (another new flavour combo which we'd also love to eat again).
After a great night's sleep and a full English breakfast in the magnificent dining room with a vista on to Windermere, we took a stroll down by the lakeside then headed to our final stop of the weekend tour: Windermere Jetty Museum.
This is a fascinating place to learn about the boats, people and history of the lake. Inside you will find restored crafts of all shapes and designs, from wooden pleasure boats to historic vessels that set speed records on the lake. Weather permitting, you can also enjoy a boat trip on one of its heritage vessels. During our visit, we went out on a 1930s diesel-powered craft, Penelope II - definitely the best way to get about Windermere.
Cumbria's culture campaign
THE attractions of Blackwell, Armitt and Windermere Jetty are all being promoted as part of a local tourism initiative Let’s Go Culture.
The project is funded by the UK government through the UK Shared Prosperity Fund and is supported by Westmorland & Furness Council.
The UK Shared Prosperity Fund is a central pillar of the UK government’s Levelling Up agenda and provides £2.6 billion of funding for local investment by March 2025.
The Fund aims to improve pride in place and increase life chances across the UK investing in communities and place, supporting local business, and people and skills. For more information, visit https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/uk-shared-prosperity-fund-prospectus
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