If ever a town could be accused of hiding its talents under a bushel, it could be Bishop Auckland.
I was invited there last weekend to enjoy what this County Durham town has to offer, and it is surprisingly a lot.
Known for the spectacularly epic Kynren performances showcasing England’s history over the centuries, the former mining town is now promoting more, celebrating its varied history.
The regeneration charity The Auckland Project has created a series of attractions following its purchase of Auckland Palace. These include art galleries, a museum and the project’s own hotel, with plans for more.
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I let the train take the strain and the services to Bishop Auckland were fast, with a change at Darlington. After a short walk, I was in the town centre, soon finding Knead a Slice, which serves the most delicious pizza, well-priced it was too.
I soon found Auckland Tower, where the Auckland Project is based and after receiving my pass, set out to explore.
The Auckland Gardens were worth a visit, looking lovely on the crisp, cold day, with people getting ready the Aglow at Auckland Palace Christmas light trail. Even without the lights, it made for a pleasant walk. The deer in the deer park are long gone but I saw two squirrels.
In Auckland Place, once owned by the church and home to the powerful Prince Bishops of Durham, the project has created the most magnificent Christmas display, with the most colourful and imposing trees and an impressive lightshow.
This leads you on to the Faith Museum, a unique attraction recalling the histories of various religions from 6000 years ago right up to the present day. This is the only museum of its kind and the originality of it makes it well worth seeing.
Over the road came the imposing and impressive Spanish Gallery, another first that celebrates Spain’s Golden Age. Auckland Palace came with some Spanish art and the backers of the Auckland project wisely thought they would add to it by creating this amazing attraction.
The splendour of it all, with its varied paintings and carvings, gave an ambience that made you think you were in a Spanish cathedral.
Now, there was a little time to spare until the light display started, so I called in at one of the finer Wetherspoons, below returning to the gardens.
After entering a tunnel of light you then turn left to enjoy a colourful light show on the side of the palace and one featuring a lawn of glowing balls that would change colour- very psychedelic!
Next came a walk through the woods, with well-made pathways, taking you through the trees and lights of various colours. Firey displays also added to the excitement.
A ‘Santa’s Village’ featured the man himself, who gave regular performances, there were also stalls and various attractions, presenting much fun for children of all ages.
More impressive light shows followed and soon it was a taxi to Park Head Hotel, the project’s hotel a few miles out of town.
Check-in was friendly and efficient. My room was spacious, comfortable, modern with a huge, king-size bed. The wifi-worked well and the heating was on beautifully.
The Oak Room restaurant was most pleasant and so was the food. I enjoyed the mussels with white onions, leek, parsley, garlic cream and tasted bread (£8.95), lapping up every drop.
For mains I had the Lamb Kleftiko (£18.75), a Greek dish featuring lamb rump with Boulanger potato, onions, tomato, and oregano broth. This was deliciously tender and flavoursome and soon polished off.
More traditional ‘classic favourites’ like burgers, fish and chips, etc, are also available.
Washed down with two large red wines, I was most content.
The hotel was exceptionally quiet, I slept well, and I awoke to snow, which caused chaos on the road outside, but was mostly gone by lunchtime.
After a most lovely full-English breakfast, it was back to Bishop Auckland to meet up with the Auckland Project who gave me a guided tour of the mining gallery. A range of paintings recalled the struggles of a once major industry, with a community pride, sadly long gone. As a Yorkshireman, I do wonder why more of our former mining areas don’t have such wonderful attractions.
I then enjoyed a sandwich in the town hall, again well priced with large portions. I admitted the mining and other paintings there, before exploring the town centre where there is a football museum, created because a team from West Auckland won the original World Cup!
There is also a statue to Stan Laurel (of Laurel and Hardy fame) who was born in Ulverston, Cumbria, but he learnt his comedy on the stage in Bishop Auckland, before heading to the USA. The high street pubs had beer and cider at £2.50-£2.60 a pint!
Next followed the El Castillo tapas restaurant, which like the other project attractions, is in the scenic Market Place area of town.
I started with a most tasty and delightful garlic mushrooms on sourdough (£5), followed by spiced chicken & pepper kebabs with a fresh mint yogurt dipping sauce, crispy garlic and herb belly pork (£8.50), and roast seasonal vegetables from the walled gardens (£6). Portions were generous, so I could not eat it all. Highlights included the kebabs complementing the dipping sauce most well, as did the belly pork with its own harissa aioli.
All was washed down with a large pleasant Spanish red I had never seen before (£9.50).
Then it was taxi back to the hotel, and after another pleasant sleep, another fine breakfast, this time pancakes with bacon and maple syrup. Delicious!
It was soon time to leave, but what a fantastic weekend. So many different things to see and enjoy and there’s more. Bishop Auckland’s Christmas Market starts on Friday November 29. You can also have train rides in Weardale with Santa, plus there are many other attractions nearby.
Coupled with the friendliness of everyone there, I can only wish success for the Auckland Project, in their town you are guaranteed a great time.
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