JO HAYWOOD finds out how to tell fake fashion from the real deal.

WE'VE had fake boobs, fake tans and fake orgasms. Now we've got fake fashion.

Gone are the days of Del Boy-style fly-pitchers. Counterfeit couture is a £306 billion global industry, boosted by the growing popularity of internet buying.

"If you buy designer items you should expect to pay a premium price. If not, you should be very cautious," said Liz Levett, trading standards manager for City of York Council. "It's a bit of a clich, but it's wise advice: if it looks too good to be true, it probably is."

It's an offence for a trader to sell fake fashion under the Trades' Descriptions and Trademarks acts. Private individuals can also be prosecuted for breach of contract.

"We are always concerned about people damaging legitimate trade," said Liz. "It's something we come down on very hard in York."

Small fry pitching on a street corner can expect a caution and confiscation of their goods. Big fish can be jailed for ten years.

How to spot a fake from 50 paces...

u Look for quality buttons, welted buttonholes and superior interior seams with small, neat stitching - counterfeiters don't tend to waste their time and energy on the little details that make a designer bag worth having

u An Italian brand name item should be made in Italy. A tag that reads 'Made in Taiwan' is a big red flag. Before shelling out on Gucci, Chanel, Versace or Vuitton, check where they are usually manufactured and double check the label

u Some websites are authorised to sell designer labels. Amongst the most popular are www.yoox.com, www.eluxury.com and www.net-a-porter.com

u If you're buying online always review the terms and conditions of the site, which should explain the provenance of the goods. It's also worth checking its returns policy. All sites are bound by law to offer a refund policy; if it doesn't, alarm bells should ring

u Look out for extras such as branded dustbags, boxes, warranties and identity cards. But don't let your guard down - fakers are always one step ahead and are now starting to counterfeit the packaging as well as the goods

u Phoney tags are usually given away by poor stitching. If you spot a split tag, however, you could be getting a good deal. Manufacturers normally designate damaged goods by cutting their tags in two. If the damage is barely noticeable, it's a bargain.

Updated: 11:07 Tuesday, July 12, 2005