THERE'S one thing you need when you visit Harewood House and that's time. Lots of it.

If you spent a whole week at this Yorkshire treasure chest you still wouldn't see all of it, and it just keeps on getting better.

New this year is the super stupa (a Buddhist monument), which has pride of place in the tranquil Himalyan gardens.

A stupa was originally a burial mound enshrining relics of a holy person, but over the centuries this has developed into tall, spired monuments. The one at Harewood was specially-constructed by Lama Sonam Chopel, the religious advisor to the King of Bhutan. Prince Charles visited it only days before his wedding to Camilla Parker-Bowles.

You get to it by following the woodland garden trial, by the side of the lake, and past the 20ft "waterfall". After admiring the Chinese and Himalayan collection of herbaceous plants and rhododendrons, you can continue on the lakeside walk to the walled garden, which was built between 1755 and 1780 and covers seven acres.

Just make sure that you get back to the bird garden by 2pm because it's feed-the-penguins time. Watching the funny Humboldt penguins diving for food is a big attraction at Harewood. One side of the pool is made of glass, affording a close view of their aquatic acrobatics.

The penguins share the gardens with more than 100 species of birds from South and Central America, the African grasslands, Australia and Asia. These include ostriches, macaws, toucans, flamingos, storks and cranes.

But these aren't the only birds at Harewood. Flying high over the estate we saw a rare red kite. Dozens of these birds were released on to the estate in 1999 as part of a national programme.

No trip to Harewood is complete without a visit to the house itself. Completed in 1771, the house has stunning interiors by Robert Adam and furniture by Thomas Chippendale.

It is slavishly furnished with outstanding collections such as Chinese porcelain and Renaissance paintings, and it is dubbed the V&A of the North.

There is a special royal collection in memory of Lord Harewood's mother, Princess Mary, who lived at Harewood until her death in 1965. Personal royal family memorabilia, including school books, photographs and wedding gifts are on display.

Below stairs you can see the restored old kitchen and scullery, once the domain of the servants, and you can even try on the costumes.

As soon as our three-year-old son, Elliot, realised that there weren't any Fireman Sam outfits to wear, he soon lost interest.

He was more interested in the superb adventure playground. He and I spent upwards of an hour climbing through tunnels and whizzing down the slides. The only downside was that we got covered in mud.

Fact file

Harewood House is on the A61 Harrogate to Leeds road. From York head to Wetherby on the B1224, take the A58 to Collingham then the A659 to Harewood.

Admission: A freedom ticket (house and grounds) for adults costs £11, Monday to Friday, £13 Saturday, Sundays and bank holidays; senior citizens £9.50 and £11.50; children (over three) £6.50 and £8; family ticket, £35 and £40. For the grounds only, the admission price is reduced by up to £2.75. Cyclists and those who travel by bus get half-price admission.

Opening times: Daily until October 30. House, 11am-4pm; bird garden, 10am to one hour before dusk; grounds 10am-6pm.

Information line 0113 218 1010

www.harewood.org

Competition

We have six family tickets to win, just answer this simple question. In what year was building work completed at Harewood?

Send your answers on a postcard with your name, address and daytime telephone number to Simon Ritchie, Harewood Competition, Evening Press, 76-86 Walmgate, York Y01 9YN. Deadline: June 15, 2005.

Updated: 09:11 Saturday, June 04, 2005