NOW here's a rarity: a new English restaurant in York that's cool, clean, contemporary - and utterly unpretentious.

Rarity restaurant in George Hudson Street describes itself as a 'steak and seafood' establishment. That's an unusual combination, but one which may just prove to be a winner.

The restaurant has been opened by Paul and Jill Carroll, who run the Sutton Arms at Sutton on Derwent, and their son Tony. They pride themselves on sourcing their beef from local herds - and judging by the quality and freshness of the seafood we enjoyed there, much of that is sourced locally too.

Although it has only been open a month or so, the restaurant already advises booking ahead. We did so, and had no difficulty getting a table for a Friday night.

First impressions on walking in are of space and elegance. The walls are pale and simple, adorned by original contemporary artworks. The floors are of pale wood, there is a comfortable waiting area with soft chairs near the bar, and the remainder of the restaurant is furnished with generously-spaced tables that give plenty of room for diners to feel private. Quiet piano music in the background set just the right tone.

We were escorted to a table for two on a raised dais area at the back, separated from the rest of the dining area by black-painted iron railings.

Although it sells itself on its steak and seafood, there is plenty more on offer to tempt the tastebuds. Starters range from freshly-prepared soup of the day (beef and tomato on our visit) to Scottish mussels, steak strips, scallops, mackerel or baked goats cheese.

For the main course, there are a range of fish dishes, steaks galore, but also the likes of roast duck breast forestiere, vegetable moussaka, venison loin medallions and cream pesto tagliatelle.

There is also, each day, a small selection of specials chalked up on a board which your waiter will run through with you when you order.

We ordered drinks (a large glass of very pleasant chardonnay at £3.65 for me, an orange squash, 75p, for Lili) then tucked into fresh, crusty bread with real butter while we pondered the menu

I chose the soup of the day (£3.65) for starters. Lili was tempted by the east coast crab; but having been told by our cheerful waitress that it was served cold pate-style on toast, she opted for the Moules Mariniere (Scottish mussels with shallots and garlic in a white wine cream sauce at £5.95) instead.

For my main course I went for the pork fillet roulade, described as being filled with mushrooms and blue cheese and wrapped in Parma ham (£11.60). Lili opted for the whole baked sea bass (£16.75) from the specials board.

Hungry, we waited perhaps slightly longer than we expected for our starters, but didn't mind because the restaurant was so relaxing and pleasant.

My soup, when it arrived, was covered in a slight skin: but it was still hot, and thick, creamy and delicious to boot.

Lili said her mussels were very fresh and tasty and polished them off with aplomb, scooping them out of their shells and making good use of the fingerbowl provided.

After another short wait, our main courses arrived. Lili's eyes grew round with anticipation when her whole sea bass, beautifully baked, was placed before her on a flared white dish. She quickly devoured the lot, picking the bones clean of the tender white flesh and pronouncing it excellent. I tried a taste and had to agree - it was melt-in-the-mouth tender, with a quality of taste and texture you associate more with the best freshwater fish than sea fish.

My pork was also good, if not quite as knockout as Lili's fish. The meat was tender, if perhaps a touch dry, the mushroom and blue cheese filling pleasingly sour.

Our meals came with an assortment of vegetables presented in a side dish: perfectly cooked new potatoes, their skins tearing with a little crisp pop as you bit into them: delicious, crispy chips; cauliflower, carrots and peas.

We were pleasantly full by the time we finished. That didn't deter me from taking a look at the puddings: and once I had spotted the apple and apricot crumble - (£4.15 and made on the premises) there was no going back.

It proved an excellent choice, the tartness of the apricot complementing the apple nicely, the crumble itself light, moist and satisfying.

With a bracingly strong coffee (£1.75) to finish, our meal came to just over £48. We thought that was pretty good value for food of this quality.

Even better value is the lunchtime bistro menu, which enables you to try out what Rarity has to offer without the expense of a full evening meal.

Rarity steak and seafood restaurant, 14 George Hudson Street, York.

Tel: 01904 541151.

Fact file

Food: seafood heaven

Service: cheerful

Value: good

Ambience: cool & spacious

Disabled access: YES

Stephen Lewis visited Rarity on Friday April 15, 2005.

Updated: 10:33 Saturday, April 23, 2005