Zizzi, 2 Lendal, York

DR ATKINS promoted the diet revolution of the 21st century, urging us to swap carbs for protein.

But it's clear that York isn't listening.

The city's newest restaurant, Zizzi, has been open a month and is regularly packed with diners overdosing on carbs.

From the bruschetta and garlic bread starters to the pizza and pasta main courses, they were all satiating themselves on stodge.

Zizzi is part of a large chain of restaurants and has opened its York branch in Lendal, in a stylish two-floor building formerly home to Marzano, an almost identical Italian eaterie.

The menu is extensive without being exhaustive with all the usual suspects as well as a few interesting-looking surprises.

Take, for example, the starter of Tortelli alla zucca (pasta filled with pumpkin, parmesan and biscotti); the Calzone di pesce (fold-over pizza with oak-roasted salmon, mascarpone, spinach and mozzarella) and Pappardelle zafferano (pasta with crayfish, caramelised leeks with saffron and mushroom sauce).

I'd booked a table for three for 8pm and when I turned up with my sister Yvonne and friend Carolyn the restaurant was almost full.

We were shown to a table near the door, but quickly asked to move because it was a bit breezy.

Resettled, we studied the menu and placed our order. For starters: Garlic mozzarella pizza bread with caramelised balsamic onions (£3.75); Bruschetta al pomodoro - grilled ciabatta with marinated cherry tomatoes, basil, red onions and balsamic vinegar (£3.50) and Insalata litorale - crayfish, smoked salmon, rocket, cherry tomatoes, cucumber and red onion with mandarin dressing (£4.35). For mains, Yvonne chose the pizza Della zia, with the unusual-sounding combination of crayfish, mascarpone, rocket, cherry tomatoes and lemon oil (£7.50); Carolyn picked pizza Rucola e prosciutto, with prosciutto ham, rocket and parmesan (£7.50) while I plumped for Spaghetti alla Bolognese (£6.75).

For wine, we picked the Cabernet Sauvignon Marcite IGT (£13.95) which was delicious; medium bodied, smooth and ripe with berry fruits. We had the chance to enjoy a glass before our starters arrived.

While my companions took their carbo-fix, I savoured the sensational flavours in the salad, which I would thoroughly recommend. The oval dish was covered with peppery rocket leaves, dotted with small pieces of oaky smoked salmon and salty crayfish (which are a bit like juicy, squat prawns). The citrus dressing lifted it all with a welcome zing.

Next, I helped polish off the other starters, which were acceptable, but seemed rather bland and heavy after my light and fresh salad.

The good thing about having a salad starter is that you still feel able to do the main course justice.

Spaghetti Bolognese is one of my favourites but can so often disappoint. However, Zizzi's was just the ticket: the pasta still had a bite and the sauce hit the right balance between tasting beefy yet tomatoey.

The pizzas got the thumbs up too: the bases were light and fairly thin, the toppings fresh and tasty. Yvonne wondered about the combination of crayfish with mascarpone and lemon oil on hers, deciding it was a bit too sweet and sickly. But she still ate it all.

To finish, we shared two desserts: Torta tartufo al cioccolato, rich chocolate mousse on an Amaretto base (£3.50); and Banana con cioccolata, oven-baked caramelised banana, sweet crepes and chocolate sauce, with ice cream (£3.95). We also ordered two cappuccinos (£1.60 each) and a mint tea (£1.40).

The mousse was thick and chocolatey, but the base too thin, which left the dish unbalanced. The crepes were more successful, although the entire combo turned into a dark gooey mush in the oven. One best eaten with your eyes shut.

Our hot drinks were spot-on and when we settled our bill of £61.25 we all agreed we'd had a tasty meal at a reasonable price.

Quite what Dr Atkins would have made of it is another matter.

Zizzi, 2 Lendal, York

Tel: 01904 644000

Food: hidden gems

Service: busy

Value: good

Ambience: trendy

Disabled access: Yes

Maxine visited on Saturday, April 2, 2005.

Updated: 13:14 Saturday, April 16, 2005