Valley of Kiwi wine

Four bottles of Esk Valley wine landed on my desk this week. What, I thought? Could this be wine from a Northern English coastal vineyard close to Whitby?

No, of course it couldn't and besides, the Hawke's Bay on the label and the use of screw-cap closures lays the finger firmly on our Kiwi cousins as producers.

I've never been overly impressed by New Zealand reds, bar some pretty decent examples of pinot noir. However the good folk and grapes of the Hawke's Bay wine area, benefit from more hours of sunshine than anywhere else in New Zealand.

All those extra rays may explain why Esk Valley Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec 2003 is so good.

Brooding stuff, like the clouds over a Lord Of The Rings battle sequence, with dark forest fruit aromas and toasted oak. Complex too, the wine is rich with plums, brambles, raspberry, nice touches of vanilla oak and mouth-filling tannins.

Hawke's Bay produces loads of chardonnay as well as reds. Esk Valley Chardonnay 2002 is a big barrel fermented wine, full of mandarin and grapefruit flavours. Not for the fainthearted, this is only for signed-up fans of OINCK (oak in chardonnay is OK).

As a founder member of said club, I can stamp my seal of approval all over this aromatic example. The man from OINCK, he says "yes".

Now here's a wine that will soothe a sore throat, well maybe not. Cold sufferers could take some comfort from the lemon and honey flavours that are so forward in Esk Valley Chenin Blanc 2004. What a pity those cold sufferers will not be able to taste anything or smell the wines blossom-fuelled nose. This cool fermented chenin approaches off-dry, with a hint of sweetness which is tempered by fresh acidity. It will improve further with ageing.

From a wine-drinking perspective, New Zealand is most associated with sauvignon blanc, although not Hawke's Bay where it only plays the role of a supporting actor. Typically for the area, Esk Valley Sauvignon 2004 shows more restraint than examples of the grape from other regions. Subtle grassy notes, apricot, lime and gooseberry vie for attention with orange-blossom pungency. It is crisp, refreshing and worthy of great deliberation.

Esk Valley is only a small-scale producer, with wines sold through selected independent wine merchants.

Stockists include York Wines in Sheriff Hutton and a little further afield, The Wine Shop in Settle and Hoults of Huddersfield. The bottle prices indicated are approximate.

Wine list:

Esk Valley Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec 2003, £9.99 at selected independents 17/20

Esk Valley Chardonnay 2002, £7.99 at selected independents 17/20

Esk Valley Chenin Blanc 2004, £7.99 at selected independents 16/20

Esk Valley Sauvignon 2004, £7.99 at selected independents 16/20

Updated: 16:39 Friday, March 04, 2005