Fairfax Arms, Gilling East.

AS romantic meals go, this could have been a recipe for disaster. About half an hour into our journey to the Fairfax Arms, a cautionary check of the map reveals a potential headache.

We're heading to Gilling East, near Helmsley - the full beam of the car headlights guiding our way along the snaking B1223.

But the map tells us there's another Gilling in North Yorkshire: Gilling West, nearly 50 miles west... near Richmond, to be precise.

That's at least another hour's drive. And, as our rumbling stomachs confirm, that diversion certainly wasn't on the menu.

"Are you sure the Fairfax Arms is in Gilling East?" asks my increasingly concerned passenger and dining partner, Laura. "You did check when you phoned to book the table, didn't you?"

Of course, I quickly assure her, knowing full well I hadn't.

But as we pulled into tiny Gilling East and the Fairfax Arms sprang into view, I allowed myself a mighty sigh of relief.

So it was with renewed vigour that we entered the historic country inn, former home to Sir Thomas Fairfax, one of Cromwell's Civil War henchmen.

Our appetites may have been as angry as a Parliamentarian mob, but revolution was the last thing on our minds as we took our seats.

It was Friday night, and the Fairfax was bursting with a mix of well-heeled locals and guests.

Situated in the shadow of Ampleforth College, the Fairfax is also handily placed for any budding golfer. A full-sized course is a mere nine-iron lob away and makes the 17th century pub a handy 19th-hole for thirsty fairway fans.

Inside it was clear that although the venue's decor boasted a sophisticated modern feel, the pub's sense of history and atmosphere had not been lost.

The place was packed with novel touches: on a quick trip to the spotless toilets, for example, I was greeted by a collection of toy cars.

When we turned our attention to the menu, a comprehensive choice awaited.

Because the Fairfax had saved my bacon by being in Gilling East, I decided it would be fitting to go for the slow roast pork ribs (£4.95). Laura contemplated white and black pudding, fresh mushroom cups and baked goats cheese, before opting for the duck and chicken liver terrine with chutney (£4.95).

The portion of ribs was generous - at least a dozen - and the tender pork was perfectly complimented by a warming yet not overly tangy sauce.

Laura's pat was wonderfully thick. Spread on warm toast, one mouthful revealed several tasty textured layers and a temptingly rich plum apple chutney.

Impressively, more innovative dishes were waiting on the main course menu. Everyday favourites had been given a novel tweak, with particular attention to detail. A roast chunk of cod is served on a spinach and pecorino mash, roast duck comes with homemade marmalade gravy, while chicken supreme sits with garlic butter and white wine.

I failed to resist the lure of the steak Normandie (£14.95) while Laura decided to pig out and plumped for the pork loin (£9.75).

My steak was delicious, one of the finest I've tasted. Cooked to perfection it arrived with a wedge of creamy brie on top. This slowly melted as I tucked into a tender piece of meat soaked in garlic, meat juices and red wine. Again, the red wine sauce, so often overpowering, was subtly restrained.

Laura's pork was massive; almost the size of a shot put. But there was never any danger of us picking it up and hurling it through the window. Again, the meat was tender and its base was covered in a strip of crispy crackling, the top coated in a sage and onion stuffing.

The massive 'farmer's' portions dented our pudding plans, but we still managed to find room to share a banoffee pie (£3.95), draped in fresh cream with layers of biscuit crumbs, toffee sauce and bananas. Delicious.

So it was with a certain degree of sadness that we downed irons, polished off the Australian chardonnay (£11.50) and coffee (£1.75) and made our way out into the gloomy night.

The bill came to £52.80, which given the quality and quantity of food and superb service represented good value for a special night out.

The growing number of five-star gastro-pubs in North Yorkshire continues to spoil diners - and here's another to add to the list.

Just remember to check the map before you head off....

Fairfax Arms, Gilling East. Tel: 01439 788212

Dan Jones visited on February 4, 2005.

Updated: 09:02 Saturday, February 12, 2005