How tastes change. Last weekend I attended a school reunion.

Not the usual kind where a hundred or so people gather, to rediscover the reasons for not having seen each other for 20 years. No, this was a more intimate wine and dine for around a dozen guests. We had been part of a social circle, scattered to all parts of the country after A Levels.

Twenty or so years ago, in similar circumstances, I would have taken a two-litre bottle of Kestrel lager to a party. My tastes have changed somewhat, as have those of my old chums and those of the nation.

You might have been looked at oddly, had you taken an Australian or South African wine to a dinner party in the early Eighties.

Don't worry folks, it's now socially acceptable and you won't go far wrong taking any of the following.

Firstly a red and white duo from Ferngrove, a relatively new set-up, with vineyards in the cooler Frankland River area of Western Australia. Not exactly widely available (as yet) the first two wines can be found online and at some independent outlets. Look on the bright side, the chances are no one else will bring the same bottle to the party.

The fresh Ferngrove Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2004 is crisp with natural acidity and fragrant lemon and lime zest. Plenty of pungent elderflower flavours and blossom aromas too. All giving scope as an aperitif or for pairing with light spicy dishes.

It's red partner Ferngrove Estate Cabernet Shiraz 2003 is good, and a little different. Nicely balanced stuff with plums galore, ripe blackberry fruit and vanilla oak, intertwined with pepper and perky tannins. I'd pair it with lasagne and other meaty pasta dishes.

I've dipped into the reserve range of Australian wine-producing giant Jacob's Creek before and been impressed. I was even more impressed by Jacob's Creek Reserve Riesling 2003; it would add soul to the lemon sole. Already exhibiting the characteristic kerosene aromas of the grape, this example is bone dry with a little effervescence. It has a wonderful acidity with long-lingering flavours of lemon and lime. Flavours, freshness and aromas all kept firmly in place by a screwcap, that increasingly popular device for sealing wine.

Moving from South Australia to South Africa and a great dinner party red from Graham Beck. A couple of weeks back I wrote about the chardonnay viognier from the same 'dual varietals' range. The delightfully smooth Graham Beck Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ranks even higher in my book. Liberal amounts of smoked oak, hot pepper and spices, contrast brilliantly with ripe berry fruit and yellow plum flavours. There's enough tannic activity to keep me happy and to pair nicely with rich meat dishes.

As for the reunion and our collective changing tastes. Maybe we'll all meet again in another 20 years, maybe not. If we do, I wonder what we will be drinking then? And Mark, please don't bring anymore of that sickly-sweet pink fizz, even if it is six bottles for a tenner.

Ferngrove Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2004, around £5.99 at selected independents and online at www.greatwesternwine.co.uk 15/20

Ferngrove Estate Cabernet Shiraz 2003, around £5.99 at selected independents and online: www.greatwesternwine.co.uk 16/20

Jacob's Creek Reserve Riesling 2003, £7.99 at Sainsbury's. 18/20

Graham Beck Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, £6.99 at Sainsbury's. 17/20

Updated: 09:16 Saturday, February 12, 2005