I WAS always under the illusion that my dazzling looks and sparkling personality were the reason why so many of my male acquaintances jumped at the chance to accompany me for an expenses-paid dinner a deux.

But I was wrong. It was the promise of free meat. And when I offered them a delightful evening at York's newest vegetarian eatery, they disappeared faster than I could plead: "It won't be all chickpeas."

It was their loss because I was right about the chickpeas. In fact, Vanilla Black, which opened two months ago, is about as far as you can get from the stereotypical nut roast and hippies idea of what a vegetarian restaurant should be.

Owners Andrew Dargun and Donna Conroy are a vegetarian couple who were increasingly fed-up of being an after-thought when they went out for a meal and decided to do something about it.

The menu sparkles with choice and flavour. Traditional home cooking with a twist seems to be the theme, with plenty of fresh, organic ingredients, a selection of vegetarian wines, and options for vegan diners.

The welcome is also sparkling and the bitterly cold walk into town was instantly forgotten as my housemate Elli and I stepped through the front door and were guided to our table.

We were especially impressed when the waiting staff inquired whether we were warm enough - just one example of the truly thoughtful and attentive service we enjoyed throughout the night.

We ordered two 175ml glasses of house white wine (£5.30) and absorbed our surroundings.

Vanilla Black manages to strike a rare balance between relaxed and formal dining. The dcor is simple yet cosy, with a country feel, and you don't feel too crammed in.

The glasses, plates and cutlery all glistened and were possibly the cleanest I had ever seen when dining out - it's not a huge thing but adds a sense of occasion.

After some deliberation, we made our choice. Elli plumped for a home-cooking theme with minted pea and crme fraiche soup (£3.25), followed by vintage cheese and balsamic onion bread and butter pudding with dark ale reduction, with potatoes and sea salt roasted roots on the side (£10.95).

My selections were a little more Mediterranean - warm haloumi cheese with peppered roquette leaves and caramelised peach dressing (£4.50), with a vegan main course of sweet potato and basil dumplings in a warm gazpacho sauce with roasted peppers and toasted pine nuts, and a dressed leaf salad (£10.95).

Service was speedy and our starters were on the table within 15 minutes.

Elli's soup looked, smelt and tasted delicious, bursting with fresh herbs or, as she put it, "gardeney tasting". It came with a generous hunk of walnut bread - a good accompaniment but we noted that there had been no mention of nuts on the menu.

I gobbled up every scrap on my plate. The firm, salty cheese and tangy green leaves were a winning combination, although I would have preferred a little less olive oil dressing and a little more fruity peach sauce for dunking.

The high standards were maintained by the main courses. Once Elli got over the confusion of having what is normally a dessert for her main meal, she ploughed through the rich and creamy pud with a grin. "Gorgeous" was the verdict.

Confusion about my selection also turned to delight. I always thought of gazpacho as a chilled tomato soup but I was far from complaining about the flavoursome, thick sauce in which my light-as-a-feather dumplings swam.

It was the perfect winter comfort food and despite my lack of love for peppers, I devoured them with enthusiasm.

We both felt full, but not as heavy and bloated as after a meat-filled meal, so desserts were greedily ordered.

The selection is based on seasonal availability and Elli went for spicy apple and sultana crumble (£4.80), which she said was delicious but too filling to finish.

While my eye was immediately drawn to the Belgian dark chocolate and chilli cheesecake, I couldn't resist my childhood favourite of trifle, which came in raspberry, ginger and amaretto flavour (£4.85).

Fans of strong flavours will love this tasty dessert, which I found it to be quite cakey and gooey. Andrew later explained that the runniness was down to the necessary omission of gelatine.

With a pear and apple green tea (£1.10) for me to wash things down, the bill came to £45.70, which we both agreed was well worth it.

If this place can't convert the carnivores, nothing will.

Vanilla Black, 26 Swinegate, York. Tel: 01904 676750

Alex visited on Saturday, January 22, 2005.

Food: delicious

Service: faultless

Value: good

Ambience: relaxed

Disabled access: No

Restaurant reviewers aim to be fair and accurate. Any comments on this review should be addressed to Chris Titley, Features Content Editor, Evening Press, 76-86 Walmgate, York, YO1 9YN or email

features@ycp.co.uk

Updated: 08:40 Saturday, February 05, 2005