Delrio's, 10 Blossom Street, York.

I've been in love with Delrio's, the Sardinian restaurant at the top of Micklegate in York, ever since my first visit back in 1998.

As a venue, it was unbeatable. A flight of stairs led to a cellar offering the best of both worlds: cosy, candlelit alcoves perfect for a romantic dinner for two and three main dining areas, ideal for a fun night out with friends.

The menu reflected that something-for-everyone spirit too. There were pizzas and pastas a plenty, but also a fine range of specials too, from steaks to sea bass, moules to monkfish.

It also had some of the best waiting staff in the city. Friendly, flirtatious, fun.

In essence, it had it all.

Then just before Christmas, its owners launched a new menu with the aim of taking it upmarket. Pizzas were banished and the pasta selection shrunk to make way for a wide range of speciality dishes such as beef, veal, seafood and fish.

I couldn't wait to check it out.

When I rang to book, I requested a table for eight o'clock, in one of the alcoves.

I was told they couldn't promise it, but we could have a drink in the bar area until one came up.

When we arrived at 8pm last Saturday night, we were directed to the bar area, which was busy. After five minutes or so, a waitress took our order: two gins and tonics. She returned with the bill: £9. Turns out the measures were doubles. Accordingly, they were a bit stiff so we asked for more tonic. She brought us another bottle and asked for another £1.50. Ouch. Had we just unearthed the most expensive G&T in York?

Half an hour on, I flagged down another waiter to inquire about our table. Moments later we were ushered to one in a dining area behind the bar.

What about the alcove table I had requested?

The waiter looked blank, but said we could probably have one if we waited another 15 minutes.

Stomachs rumbling, we decided to take what was on offer.

Studying the new menu, we ordered two glasses of large Pinot Grigio (£4.10 each).

For starters, I was tempted by the scallops in pancetta served on a potato croquette, trusting they would live up to their £8.25 price tag. For the record, I don't think I've ever paid that much for a starter.

My husband Nick only had eyes for the mixed seafood plate (£7.50).

For seconds, I plumped for salmon ravioli with prawns in a cream sauce (£8.95), Nick the monkfish tail with caper and walnut sauce and rocket salad (£14.95). The waiter recommended he also order a side dish, so Nick chose the mixed vegetables (£2.50).

After ten minutes waiting for our wine, I went waiter-hunting again. Duly prompted, he delivered our drinks, followed by a basket of bread with an oil and vinegar dip.

We were grateful for that because it was nine o'clock before our starters arrived. Ordinarily, we would not have waited this long for food in a restaurant, we would have cut our losses and gone elsewhere. However, the obligation to write this column meant we had to stay.

Nick's seafood platter, when it eventually arrived, was fresh and tasty; the squid, octopus, prawns and mussels dressed in a tangy vinaigrette.

My scallops were delicious: soft and salty on account of their pancetta wrap. The only disappointment was they came on a bed of green cabbage rather than a potato croquette. When I quizzed our waiter about it, he threw his hands in the air and mumbled something about the chef changing the menu. 'You like it, no?' he inquired.

However, things began to look up when a mere ten minutes later our main courses arrived - until Nick cut into his monkfish and saw it was raw. Our waiter apologised and whisked it back to the kitchen with the promise of a swift return in five minutes.

Meanwhile, I faced my ravioli alone. It was cooked al dente and was rather bland bar for the sweetness of the sauce. In retrospect, from the abundance of appetising dishes on the menu, it was a poor choice on my part.

Some 15 minutes later, the monkfish made another appearance, but by now it resembled a piece of inedible rubber. Our waiter obviously realised this and told us there would be no charge for the dish.

And that was when I realised it was over. A love affair of seven years had died. It was time to go our separate ways.

Settling the bill, I asked our waiter what had gone wrong. Were they short staffed, was there a problem in the kitchen? He just smiled sheepishly, apologised, and said something about it being Saturday night, but there was no real problem.

Well I'm afraid that wasn't good enough to win me back. And so I left Delrio's, deflated, depressed and nursing a broken heart.

Delrio's, 10 Blossom Street, York. Tel 01904 622695

Maxine visited on Saturday, January 22, 2005

Simon Hall of Delrio's responds:

Pre booking specific tables is subject to availability and prone to longer waiting times. Regarding the starter that was not served as per the menu, as we strive to improve our dishes some are likely to be changed by the chef. You also ordered the monkfish, which arrived undercooked. Our policy is to replace the dish and deduct it from the bill. We do not re-serve the dish if it requires further cooking. This may be the reason for the replacement taking longer than expected. We have decided to reposition ourselves in the market. As opposed to a pizzeria we are an Italian Restaurant "Cucina Italiana", hence during this transitional period some problems may arise. But we do endeavour to improve our standards and service constantly. I believe your visit did not match up to our usual high standards. I can only offer our sincere apologies.

Updated: 09:12 Saturday, January 29, 2005