In Tipping's Tipples, Mike Tipping calls in the girls to put festive fizz to the test.

Since this is the first anniversary of the Tipping's Tipples wine column, I thought it was good cause for celebration. What better way to celebrate than with that fizzy wine from France? Especially since it is so close to Christmas when champagne sales traditionally go through the roof.

I've tried eight bottles of the stuff, all household names, very widely available and too good to keep all to myself.

My solution was to host a blind tasting, where none of the tasters was told which wine they were drinking. I decided to plant an imposter cava among the seven authentic champagnes. Would the guests notice?

I also thought it would be nice to have a house full of women. It just so happens that I know four gals who could be easily lured by my champagne bait! One of them is Mrs Tipping, the other three her mates Helen, Lesley and Marie. All four are of a serious wine-drinking persuasion.

Despite being in danger of contravening the Tipping's Tipples code of conduct, this is a representation of the views of the champagne gang of four and not necessarily those of this writer.

So here are the eight champagnes, seven if you're going to split hairs. Each was given a mark out of ten. The prices vary according to the stockist.

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label

Very dry with citrus and apple. Zesty and fairly light with a fine fizz. £26.99 6/10

Laurent-Perrier

Hazel and brazil nuts but not enough fruit. A little heavy. Around £25. 5/10

Bollinger Special Cuvee

Lovely fresh baked bread on the nose with citrus and nut flavours. Nice fine fizz. £29.99

8/10

Moet et Chandon

Blossom and green apple flavours that weren't well received. Rather heavy.

£22.49 - 3/10

Cordorniu Cuvee Raventos (The cava)

OK but the apple and nut flavours didn't do much for the tasters.

£7.99 at Majestic and Makro - 5/10

Krug Grand Cuvee

A little bland and the citrus flavour was unpleasant.

£79.99 - 4/10

Lanson Black Label

Rich and nutty with fresh-baked bread aromas and plenty of fruit.

£20.99 - 7/10

Taittinger Reserve

Nice and light with apples but missing a little something.

£26.99 - 6/10

It was nice to note that the tasters didn't pick up on the cava, which passed off as an authentic champagne. With a price tag of £7.99 it received a higher rating than the Krug Grand Cuvee which is ten times the price! I liked the Krug, although I can't justify the price, but I knew what I was drinking. Perhaps that swayed my opinion (I hope not).

The guest tasters were unanimous in their decision for the evening's top tipple. Who am I to disagree with four fizz fans in the 'get rid of him, his use has expired' mode?

The winner? Of course it was the Bolly, Sweety. How absolutely fabulous.

Updated: 12:14 Monday, December 06, 2004