In Tipping's Tipples, MIKE TIPPING heads to Harrogate to sample the wines of Waitrose.

Until now, I have always deleted Waitrose off the list of stockists of wines which I've sampled for Tipping's Tipples. This isn't because I have a vendetta against the supermarket chain. It's simply because up until two weeks ago, the nearest branch was in Newark.

Fortunately, Waitrose has opened up a branch nearer home, at Station Parade, Harrogate. The store has a good reputation for it's wine and won several accolades.

I was glad to find myself called on other business to Harrogate last week. I stole ten minutes to drop in on the new supermarket and chose a few bottles to put to the Tipping's Tipples test.

Four French country wines to be precise, all included in Waitrose's 20 per cent off vin de pays offer which runs until September 5.

Even my rudimentary grasp of French allows me to translate the name of the first wine opened. Les Fleurs Chardonnay Sauvignon 2003 Vin de Pays de Cotes de Gascogne. Flowers is a very apt description, the sauvignon in the equation has made this a very aromatic white. It's also quite crisp with lots of peaches and cream. On the down side it's a little too sweet for my taste, off dry I'd say. Best served to my mum as an aperitif.

Far better suited to my palate was the Cuvee Mythique Blanc 2002 Vin de Pays d'Oc. This wine has a nose that's big on perfume with lingering peach and vanilla flavours and good acidity. It finishes with a roasted nut bitterness, refreshing the palate, ready for another slurp. Look no further for a white with flavour.

The first contender in the red corner also hails from the Languedoc-Roussillon region (shortened to Oc after the Vin de Pays d' bit). Herrick Syrah 2002 Vin de Pays d'Oc is a round and quaffable wine. It shows the usual syrah peppery characteristics with a little violet and black cherry. Not earth-shatteringly exciting but definitely drinkable.

As is Duc de Belmonde Cabernet Franc 2002 Vin de Pays d'Oc. There are countryside aromas of crushed nettles and fresh-cut grass, not something normally associated with red wine. The blackcurrant flavours present make for more familiar territory. It's got a nice tang too, think underipe plums.

French country wines can be a bit hit and miss. The hits though, are usually pretty decent and good value for money too. This is the case with the Cuvee Mythique Blanc.

Buy a bottle and if there isn't another warm, sunny, sit-out slurping night between now and Christmas, it'll go great with the turkey!

Les Fleurs Chardonnay Sauvignon 2003 Vin de Pays de Cotes de Gascogne, £5.59 from £6.99 at Waitrose

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Cuvee Mythique Blanc 2002 Vin de Pays d'Oc, £5.59 from £6.99 at Waitrose

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Herrick Syrah 2002 Vin de Pays d'Oc, £4.23 from £5.29 at Waitrose

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Duc de Belmonde Cabernet Franc 2002 Vin de Pays d'Oc, £3.99 from £4.99 at Waitrose

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Updated: 08:19 Saturday, August 07, 2004