There's much more to the beautiful Greek island of Kefalonia than Captain Correlli and his mandolin, as Chris Buxton discovered.

JUST close your eyes and imagine a deserted cove on a beautiful Greek island. You are lying flat out in the warm sea, your head resting on a sun-warmed rock at the water's edge.

Your hired motor boat is bobbing up and down at anchor, occasionally nudging the pebbles on the beach as a bigger wave breaks.

There is no one else around. The shoreline is deserted. You have picked your spot well as you cruised down the mountainous coastline.

The sun is hot, it is early afternoon and the boat doesn't have to be back for hours. What should you do now?

The answer is... nothing. Close your eyes... listen to the swirl of the sea... and relax.

OK. That's it, enough of this. It's the middle of the English winter, cold and wet and I've set myself off dreaming again.

But it won't be long now before thoughts can turn towards summer. So where was this place of dreams?

Kefalonia. One of the Ionian islands off the south-west coast of Greece. Now you may immediately think: "Kefalonia? Isn't that Captain Correlli's Mandolin territory?"

And you'd be right. But far from being overrun by souvenir mandolins, all we saw in two weeks on the island was one taverna called Captain Correlli's, and a huddle of ruined cottages, not even marked, on a hillside where the real events which inspired the novel are said to have unfolded during the Second World War.

This is a proud and very Greek island, not given to tourist traps and rows of souvenir T-shirts. It is very beautiful, a wonderful mix of dramatic mountains, sheer cliffs, secluded bays, green valleys and picturesque villages.

The Greek islands can be all things to all men, but we try to steer clear of the Falirakis of this world and find somewhere more peaceful to unwind. So we were delighted to discover Ionian Island Holidays, a company run by three Kefalonians. They offer holidays in hand-picked apartments and villas, most with swimming pools and a car, on the islands of Kefalonia, Ithaca, Lefkas and Meganisi.

The company also offers a range of specialist holidays which includes diving and sailing.

There are some larger tourist developments on the south of the island around Skala and Lourdas, but we were based in the north, around the lovely fishing and yachting harbour of Fiskardo.

Our first week was spent at the spacious Waterfront Apartments, directly overlooking the harbour and above one of the best restaurants, the blue-canopied Captain's Cabin. The harbour is frequented by sailing flotillas and it was an entertainment watching them arrive and leave as the rookie sailors struggled with the inevitable tangle of anchor chains and mooring lines.

As the larger yachts and cruisers burbled into harbour it gave the added fascination of playing spot the millionaire; but everyone here dressed down and 'distressed casual' was definitely the look.

We spent our first week walking the short distance to either Fokki Bay or Emblissi Beach, the former enjoying shade from olive trees as well as excellent swimming.

We also took advantage of the motor boat hire which allows you to explore the north-eastern Kefalonian coast and buzz across the 3.5km channel to the island of Ithaca for a spot of lunch. No experience is needed, maps and a mobile phone for emergencies are provided, and you can anchor virtually wherever you like. Just get that boat back by 6pm!

Our second week was spent a couple of kilometres outside Fiskardo in the tiny village of Matsukata, at Alexanna Apartments, a super two-building complex with a small, attractive swimming pool and views out over the forest and the sea to Ithaca.

Here it was so quiet after the relative bustle of Fiskardo, the perfect place to relax. We never tired of the stunning view, and at night the sky was full of stars, the lights twinkled from houses dotted among the trees and olive groves and the only sound was the strange hoot of the little Scops owls.

A car was included at Alexanna so we spent our second week exploring more of the island. Just a short drive away we discovered Dafnoudi beach. A ten minute walk down a steep wooded valley tends to keep the crowds away and when sunbathing on the big white pebbles became too hot, the swimming in the clear blue sea was perfect.

Trips to the lovely peninsular village of Assos (where accommodation is also available) and the stunning Myrtos Beach, reached by an incredibly steep winding road, are a must.

Sami, where the filming for Captain Correlli was done, is also worth a visit, as is the nearby Antisamos bay. The roads are mainly wide and well surfaced - just don't look over the edge!

If you are looking for majestic scenery, authentic Greek food, a friendly welcome and that magical deserted cove just for you, then Kefalonia has the right answers. Just don't bother packing your mandolin.

Ionian Holidays 020 8459 0777

www.ionianislandholidays.com

One night at the Manchester Marriott Hotel and 15 days free parking was booked through www.holidayextras.co.uk

Updated: 09:49 Saturday, January 24, 2004