Infusing about this fish dish

TO BE honest, this month's letters proved a little tricky, so I had to make a couple of unusual choices.

First up then is Italian food, which perhaps is not such an odd choice from someone who lives by it. Italian food is much more than pizza and pasta. To me, it's all about simple basic ingredients and subtle flavours.

Chicken, veal and seafood feature strongly in classic Italian cooking. Well-known dishes are often prepared and served very differently in Italy.

British tastes usually demand Italian dishes such as spaghetti bolognaise with lashings of meaty sauce on a large bed of pasta. The true Italian version features a modest amount of spaghetti, bound together by a reduced down sauce with an intense tomato flavour.

In Italy, food is traditionally cooked over a long period. Sauces for meat and pasta dishes will often sit on the stove all day, just ticking over. A lot of Italian dishes are designed for sharing with family and friends. It's almost as though the food itself helps to create a fun atmosphere at mealtimes.

Next we have the term infusing, which is all about transferring flavour to a liquid. Infusing involves extracting flavour from herbs, spices, coffee or tea. It's done simply by pouring on boiling water or by bringing a liquid mixture to the boil before allowing it to cool. Most people have a go at infusing every day when they make a cup of tea.

Infusing is a simple method that has been handed down through the centuries, but there are always modern twists. White wine infused with saffron is my favourite. The liquid can be stirred into risotto dishes to add a delicate flavour and lovely golden colour.

Inspiration is an essential ingredient in my A to Z of cooking. As a chef I am inspired by a huge range of things I see or hear. I enjoy updating old recipes and experimenting with different ingredients to create new dishes.

I always find the best inspiration comes when you cook on an empty stomach. The key to cooking is taking the plunge and giving it a go. After all, what's the worst that can happen? If it all goes wrong, you can always opt for a takeaway!

Moving on to the letter J, first up we have John Dory, a large oval fish with olive green skin and distinctive spines along its back. John Dory is a white-fleshed fish with a delicate flavour. It's relatively cheap when in season but not very fashionable.

It's a much-underrated fish. John Dory is really versatile and can be used in stews, grilled, poached or sauted. It tastes fab when married with creamy sauces and fragrant herbs such as dill or parsley.

Julienne is a technical term for a specific cut of vegetable such as carrot, leek or parsnip. Julienne vegetables are cut into thin matchstick strips. Julienne is one of the first cuts learnt by all trainee chefs. Each strip should measure one inch by one sixteenth of an inch. At catering college, julienne vegetables that don't measure up are assigned to the soup pot.

Julienne vegetables tend to be used as a garnish for steaks and soups. They are usually sauted in butter or deep-fried. If you don't get hung up on the measurements, julienne vegetables are relatively simple to prepare and add something a bit different.

Finally this month are juniper berries, famous for giving gin its flowery flavour. Dried juniper berries are spicy and aromatic. They can usually be found among the herbs and spices in supermarkets. Use them in casseroles, marinades, pats and stuffing. They really bring out the flavour of pork and beef dishes. I love juniper berries and think they are really underused in modern cooking.

Recipes:

Seared John Dory with crushed herbed potatoes and tomato dressing

(Serves 2)

For the crushed potatoes:

200g/7oz new potatoes, peeled and diced

30g/1oz unsalted butter

2 tbsp sage, chopped

2 tbsp chives, chopped

2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, chopped

For the John Dory:

2 John Dory fillets

2 tbsp olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the tomato dressing:

110g/4oz sun-dried tomatoes,

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

Half a red onion, peeled and chopped

3-4 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp fresh basil leaves, finely chopped

Method

Place the potatoes in a large pan of salted boiling water and cook for 8-10 minutes or until tender.

Meanwhile, heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a frying pan. Season the John Dory fillets and fry for 3-4 minutes on each side.

To make the dressing, place the tomatoes, garlic, onion and olive oil into a mini-food processor and blend until smooth. Pass the mixture through a sieve into a small bowl and then mix in the fresh basil.

Drain the potatoes and roughly mash with a knob of butter. Stir in the fresh herbs.

Spoon the potatoes into two large chefs' rings on serving plates. Level off with a knife and remove the ring.

Serve the fillets on top of the crushed potatoes and drizzle with the tomato dressing.

James says: "I love John Dory, but if you can't get hold of it, then try the recipe with sea bass. The tomato and herb flavours work really well with the fish."

Marinated mackerel diamonds

(Serves four as a starter)

6 mackerel fillets

One lemon

10 dried juniper berries, lightly crushed

1 sprig thyme, leaves only

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the marinade:

400ml/14fl oz water

110g/4oz caster sugar

100ml/3.5fl oz lemon juice

2 small liquorice sticks, lightly crushed

4 star anise

Method

Pull out any pin bones from the mackerel using tweezers, cut the fillets into large diamonds and put them in a deep dish.

Cut the lemon in half vertically through the middle, then slice it into thin semi-circles. Place these in between the mackerel diamonds, then scatter over the crushed juniper berries, salt, pepper and thyme.

Combine the water, sugar and lemon juice for the marinade in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Toss in the liquorice sticks and star anise and simmer for one minute.

Pour the marinade over the mackerel diamonds while still hot. Cover with cling film and leave at room temperature until completely cold, then refrigerate for around 2.5 hours.

Serve the mackerel straight from the dish, allowing everyone to season their own fish

James says: "Dead simple and really tasty. The mackerel cooks in the marinade and takes on all the zesty lemon flavour."

Updated: 08:30 Saturday, July 24, 2004