Berlin after the fall

A STRANGE relationship exists between Germany and Britain. While there is a long and deep-seated history of mutual antagonism between the two nations, ingrained historical links make the two countries more similar than some people would care to admit.

Look at the rich history both nations have, the intertwined roots of the English and German languages, the imperialist pasts, the strong and successful economies built on the back of a heavily-ingrained Protestant work ethic, the diverse and thriving arts scenes; and, on a less-lofty, but nevertheless important level, the love of beer.

It is said of German people that they have no sense of fun or humour.

We saw no evidence of this during our short stay in Berlin, but did encounter busy bars and clubs buzzing with laughter, music and people having a good time.

The new Easyjet flight from Newcastle seems to take no time at all, as it lands at Berlin Schoenefeld Airport in one hour 45 minutes.

Reaching the city centre from the airport is simple. Nip over the road to the train station and take either the U-bahn (underground) or an over-ground train into town.

If you have used the London Underground before, the German system is easier than that. If not you will still pick it up quickly and there are always helpful (and English speaking) staff on hand. Don't let that put you off trying a few words of German. A simple "bitte" (please) and "danke" (thank you) goes a long way.

A quick ride on the U-bahn and we were in the city centre, the stop known as 'Zoo' was ours, named for its proximity to Berlin's main zoo, and was only a short way from the top-class Hotel Berlin, where we stayed. A swift change of clothes then out into the town.

Hotel Berlin is on the edge of the Schoneburg district, a popular place to eat and drink. We decided to try it, mainly because it was our first chance to experience the history of the city.

A 15-minute walk down Martin Luther Strasse is the Rathaus, or town hall, where John F Kennedy stood and made his famous, and much plagiarised, "Ich Bein ein Berliner" speech.

The speech was good enough to be remembered for ever. Fortunately for Kennedy, the gaffe within it seems to have been less well remembered, as the famous passage actually translates as "I am a doughnut."

Still, at a time of real crisis, when it looked as though the cold war would turn hot, Kennedy conveyed the right meaning, if not using exactly the right words. It was thought-provoking to stand in front of the town hall and think of Kennedy making that speech.

After the usual overseas dining ritual (walk up and down every restaurant then go in the first one you saw) we picked a pub that was packed full of locals.

The door opened to a warm welcome. Two guitarists sang covers of bad English songs, people ate and chatted and lots of beer was being drunk. A few were on their feet singing.

The effect was similar to a night in a suburban English local. The beer, Bitburger, was thin, crisp and refreshing.

Next day we headed east. My instincts (and the tourist map) told me this was where the action would be.

Happily, we were able to walk from our hotel to the Potsdamer Platz area, close to where the wall used to be, in less than 30 minutes.

I always like to stroll around new cities rather than seal myself off on the underground. Sometimes the sheer size of a place makes this impossible, but much of Berlin's central area is easy to walk.

Potsdamer Platz sits on the old east/west border, and the western side was always going to be aggressively capitalist and consumerist. Towering shiny metal and glass buildings and company logos abound. All that is left of the wall in that area is a lone section, standing on the brick outline which runs the length of the wall's original distance.

Follow it along the edge of Berlin's beautiful park, or Tiergarten, to a less infamous Berlin landmark, The Brandenburg Gate. Just under the gate is the long and famous street, Unter den Linden. Officially in the old-east side, this has been spruced up and seems to be thriving.

An enjoyable walk took us to an eastern relic, the Checkpoint Charlie museum. For westerners who have never had to endure hardship, it can be difficult to understand the desperation of people trapped on the east side of Berlin, denied basic liberties that had previously been theirs.

The museum, packed with items, stories and artefacts, does a superb job of explaining why easterners wanted to flee their half of the city. It also explains the bravery shown by people who tried to escape, and those who risked their lives trying to help. Definitely one for the Berlin "to-do" list.

After the museum we wanted beauty. We looked for it in Mehringplatz where a street oracle, a contraption that tells the future by answering 'yes' or 'no' questions, was supposed to be.

The only street oracle we found was a red-faced bloke clutching a near-empty bottle, but we weren't too interested in any knowledge he had to share.

We left him to it and tried Nikolaivier-tel instead.

In the old east side, this historic city quarter has plenty of beauty. It's just a few metres from the busy main road, or Muhlendahmm, but step inside and you go back 400 years.

Stunning church spires greet you, along with cobbled streets and moustachioed waiters serving beer at pavement cafes. It sums up what Berlin is all about, a city of contrasts, of past and recent history. Go there and drink it in.

Updated: 15:59 Friday, July 23, 2004