George Wilkinson enjoys a Ryedale roam from Castle Howard to Hovingham.
The Moorsbus we boarded at Hovingham is running frequently for the next six weeks and provides a window of opportunity for a linear route from Castle Howard to Hovingham on the Howardian Hills.
A walker got off at Slingsby; our ten-minute ride brought us to the lakeside at Castle Howard, very nice. Ten minutes on the verge brought us to Coneysthorpe, an estate village, also nice with an oblong green and an 1835 Chapel of Ease.
We amble along on a restful track, the Centenary Way, past fields of spuds, some flowering white, some purple.
Looking back, there's another sighting of the big house; looking ahead there's a wooded slope, long and low and to be climbed. It was a slightly slithery ascent, with evidence of rain, horse and bike, but well worth the effort for the view from the top.
You'll see Ryedale, its pattern of fields, and topping the other side of the wide valley, about ten miles away, a level moorland skyline.
This is the picture, at intervals, as you do the next few miles of this journey along the main northern ridge of the Howardian Hills.
Most of the distance is wooded and closely paralleled by ancient ditch earthworks.
Spot the walnut tree, toss the multi-hooked seed heads of the burr plants, help these path dwellers hitch a fleecy ride.
We settled down for our sandwiches a proper distance from an illicit tent and its scattering of Carling cans. And as we chewed, the culprits pedalled up to retrieve their canvas. They said "nice view" (Castle Howard) and zoomed off back to Malton after rumbling the sheep on Kelbro Hill. Anarchy machines.
At a crossing of the Avenue, the footpath sign said 'Hovingham three miles'.
Two of these continue along the ridge, with more woods, views and earthworks. Giant bellflowers illuminated the progress.
The last mile was half through bright woods scattered with walkers, and then finally on an airy track that swoops over fields and then down to Hovingham. Throngs of people moved in apparently random fashion.
A lady swept her lawn; it was Open Gardens day. Unfortunately we had just missed Hovingham Hall's open house season.
Directions:
When in doubt, look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
1. Alight from bus by lake opposite car park by Coneysthorpe crossroads, to crossroads, right to Malton road (verge/path), left through Coneysthorpe, pass Chapel of Ease/Church to your right and keep straight on, joining a track (signed CW after 20 yards). Ignore side turns and head for woods on hillside.
2. Immediately left in woods, 50 yards, right (sign) and ignore left fork after 20 yards, uphill on path
3. Left at top (signs) and keep on top path, cross road (sign Hovingham three miles), cross track/road end (bar gates, sign Hovingham two miles). Ignore side turns, path drops gently in woods when approaching next direction.
4. Stile out of wood, cross small meadow, path into wood, little bridge over beck, gate after 20 yards, uphill, 100 yards, straight on at unsigned junction, ignore side turns, track clearly bends left.
5. Right at big tracks crossroads (joins Ebor Way), out of woods (pass little fenced pond to your right) on to track to Hovingham.
Fact file:
Distance: Six miles.
Time: Three to four hours.
General location: Howardian Hills.
Start: Lakeside Castle Howard.
Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.
Date walked: Sunday July 18, 2004.
Road route: Moorsbus, the M4 Helmsley to Castle Howard. Three buses daily at the Worsley Arms Hovingham at 11.07, 13.37 and 16.31 on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays, from July 23 to August 30 . Then Sundays only until 31 October.
Car parking: Roadside and free car park in Hovingham.
Lavatories: None.
Refreshments: Caf/bakery and two inns.
Tourist and public transport information: For Moorsbus telephone National Park Centre at Sutton Bank 01845 597426 or Traveline 0870 608 2 608. Helmsley TIC 01439 770173.
Map: Based on OS Explorer 300 Howardian Hills.
Terrain: Ridge.
Points of interest: Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Difficulty: Moderate.
Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.
Click here to view a map of the walk
Updated: 08:43 Saturday, July 24, 2004
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