WITH a relative back from Australia for a holiday, we thought an English afternoon tea would kindle a little nostalgia. What better place to try than this delightful rural setting?

On a good day there are shaded tables in the garden. Otherwise the front room of the farmhouse has been converted into the caf. Lace tablecloths and elegant Royal Albert china abound.

But before that we thought the welcome bell outside the front door was a lovely touch.

And what a beautiful menu with its explanation of the D'Oyly name and the aim to promote Yorkshire traditional home baking.

We all chose to drink Lady Grey tea (£1.20) with lemon, although semi-skimmed milk was offered. For once our individual teapots were excellent pourers.

Ann and our guest each chose a D'Oyly's cream tea (£3.50) which provided two scones with homemade strawberry jam and a generous portion of Yorkshire clotted cream. Their verdict? Excellent, with the scones being light, fresh and neither too big nor too small.

I was rather hoping to be offered a taste of the scones. No such luck! This meant that my slice of fruit cake and wedge of Wensleydale cheese (£2.70) was not shared. It was too good for that.

Other menu items included toast with poached or scrambled eggs, buck rarebit and tuna melt.

Sandwiches ranged from £2.95, soup £2.60, a hot dry cured bacon roll, £2.45. A ploughman's lunch or Yorkshire afternoon tea are also available.

The caf, which is open on Wednesday to Sunday from 10.30am to 5pm, is the home of Henry and Vicky Houseman, a name well known in the village and in York cricketing circles (or so the trophies on the mantelpiece suggest).

There were no other snackers present when we arrived. We needn't have worried. Within minutes every table was occupied. How many people were making return visits or, like us, had found the venue by chance a few days earlier doesn't matter.

We feel sure that they would have enjoyed their refreshments and appreciated the newly-created car park next to the farmhouse.

Updated: 08:29 Saturday, June 26, 2004