Cross country

Snow had fallen, a good few inches, the thermometer read freezing, almost anywhere would have been lovely, but because mist quilted the low-lying lands we headed for the hills.

By the time we reached the moors the sun was out, the sky was clear and our spirits were high.

We strode out of the pristine little village of Lastingham, our target, Ana Cross, miles away to the north. It's a while since I've been hereabouts and there is now a new cross just outside the village, carved in a boulder for the millennium. So a walk of two crosses, to suit even the most committed atheist.

Fed up with muddy winter fields? There are none today, just a single thorn enclosure to bypass, then it's all moor. The prettiest bit came up fairly soon, a valley with a confluence of becks. These have to be forded, but as expected the water was mostly snow and cucumber-sized icicles and we took the streams one at a time, one step each.

Then the two-mile climb, at first by a path threaded through the heather (and nicely waymarked thanks to the efforts of a local lady) and then the main length on a track. The gradient is gentle; one hardly had to break stride, except now and then for some knee-high drifts. Mostly though the snow was thin, ripped from the face of the moor by high winds, so we had the pleasure without the pain, the pleasure being a landscape patchwork of white where the heather was short and almost black where the heather was tall.

Ana Cross stands proud on a tumulus, visible from half a mile away. The boot prints we had followed realised as groups of walkers who gathered round the cross and then dispersed. We took our place, sat for sandwiches on its sandstone plinth and soaked up the fabulous light-saturated views to the Wolds as the defrosting moor soaked up the sunshine. Then we put on our shades and took the path and track back down.

Lastingham has a couple of ancient wells but we accelerated past them to the cosy watering hole that is the Blacksmiths Arms. We needn't have hurried because it was open all hours for the last day of the pheasant shooting season, so quieter walks for a while.

Fact file:

Distance: Five and a half miles.

Time: Three hours plus.

General location: North York Moors.

Start: Village of Lastingham.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way, and 'usage variations'.

Date walked: Saturday, February 1, 2003.

Road route: Via Hutton-le-Hole. Note 'Bridge Closed' signs refer to bridge in centre of Lastingham.

Car parking: Roadside in Lastingham or Spaunton.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: The Blacksmiths Arms in Lastingham.

Tourist and public transport information: Helmsley TIC 01439 770173.

Map: Based on OS Explorer OL26 North York Moors Western Area.

Terrain: Moorland.

Points of interest: St Mary's, Lastingham, the shrine of St Cedd, with ancient crypt.

Difficulty: Moderate in good weather.

Dogs: Suitable.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Directions:

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. From pub, left, over bridge (closed to vehicle traffic for a month or so), left-hand bend, first road left uphill. Gateway to track and moor, one hundred yards to cross.

2. Track on right (so wall to right), straight on when wall swings away then grassy track on right of intake field (enclosed by thorn hedge), path across moor then down to confluence of two streams.

3. Steep uphill on thin path through heather (eventually small cairns and yellow-topped sticks).

4. Left to main track uphill. Ignore lesser tracks and paths. Note in case of poor visibility, Ana Cross is 50 yards to left of track - various narrow paths in heather a few hundred yards after tracks crossroads.

5. From cross, due south on path.

6. Right to main track back.

Click here to view a map of the walk

Updated: 17:36 Friday, February 07, 2003