On top of the Wolds

We didn't hang around on the Wayrham picnic plot, we had miles of Wolds valleys to travel, a real treat of sculptured countryside. Wayrham Dale first, a bit of woodland and then a surprise. A pond, called Bradeham Well on the map, ovoid, 20-foot across and teeming with life. Water spiders skimmed, water boatmen rowed to the depths, newts basked in sunny shallows, small snails clung to leaves, ribbon-like larvae wriggled, tadpoles twitched and bloated leeches deterred paddling.

Bradeham Dale next; we were making good time on the firm turf. It was beautiful - the shapes, the space. Gorse blazed on a slope, we touched on Thixen Dale and turned into Worm Dale. Moles and rabbits brought up the chalk-flecked soil. The valleys are sinuous but their junctions are extraordinarily abrupt and each length had its own climate, sultry to breezy at the turn of a corner.

We climbed out of Worm Dale, there was a dry dewpond and a big sky landscape, marvellously efficient prairie fields, a copse on a tumulus to remind of the prehistory, and views to the escarpment of the North York Moors.

A shaft of sunlight caught the White Horse at Kilburn, we passed some fancy chasers, then dropped through a mini park of Painsthorpe Hall, past its mini lake and into Kirby Underdale, Lord Halifax territory, All Saints Church first. Among the aristocratic and ecumenical embellishment there is a little and ancient 'rude' sculpture called the 'Roman Stone', showing the 'ordinary attributes' of the God Mercury.

Readers who scan the fact file will have noticed that this walk was done a few weeks ago. As a result the newts may have vanished but Mrs Pauline Brunton will have returned from holiday. This means that half way round you can get a smashing cuppa tea and a feast. Ignorant, we had scoffed our sandwiches, so just sampled homemade lemon zest cake and crumpet, in the sunshine on her lawn - ace.

Luckily we declined ice cream because next came a long steady climb to Cheese Cake Wold. A lovely old track takes you up and up. Look out for a most touching memorial bench and an adjacent sapling planted in a huge stump.

The last four miles were dominated by big views over the Vale of York.

We walked the high edge of the Wolds. The horizon was punctuated by four distant patterns of cooling towers, but try as we did we couldn't pick out a hint of York. More dry valleys though, notably the well named Deep Dale into which we descended, with a mile to go the climb out was a bit of a sting in the tail.

As good a Wolds walk as you could wish for.

Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. Right from car park, up grassy bank, cross main road, right 50 yards (wide verge), left 20 yards, track on right downhill, fieldgate and stay on valley bottom.

2. Right at valleys T-junction.

3. Stile/fieldgate at junction (not right), 300 yards, first valley on left, stile/fieldgate. Left fork at waymarked post about 100 yards from top end of valley, uphill.

4. Pass dewpond to your left, fieldgate to path on right of hedge, left at corner, 50 yards, right to track.

5. Left to road, 100 yards, right to road (signed Kirby Underdale). Fork left at dead-end road sign, pass house, grassy track to right of second house, gate on right (signed) and cross park (above lake), stile and left to road. Church - steps out of churchyard up to pavement through village.

6. Left at corner after phonebox, Tarmac turns to track (ignore all side turns), uphill.

7. Cross main road to lane, path on left by trees (signed), then along top edge of valley.

8. Path turns left uphill by trees, cross road, fieldgate and track downhill through woods.

9. Left downhill via steps immediately before fieldgate, stile/fieldgate and right steeply up side of valley. Left at top immediately before gate so fence to your right. Pass wood.

10. Left to road, stile/fieldgate to track on right after wood, keep hedge to right (stile/fieldgates), hedged track then path by hedge in field. Please note: the farmer has signed an alternative route to the right of the hedge for those wishing to avoid cattle - not such easy walking, rejoin route at start of 11, leaving just short edge of field with cattle to do).

11. Left at far corner of field, stile on right in trees, path to road and left back to car park.

Fact file

Distance: Eight miles.

Time: Four hours.

General location: Yorkshire Wolds.

Start: Wayrham Picnic Site GR 834567.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: Friday May 9 2003.

Road route: A166.

Car parking: The Wayrham Picnic Site, a lay-by on the A166, a few miles west of Fridaythorpe, free and signed.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: In season, tea and food at PO/shop in Kirby Underdale except Thursday afternoons,

Tourist and public transport information: Beverley TIC 01482 867430.

Map: Based on OS Explorer 294 Yorkshire Wolds Central.

Terrain: Wolds Valleys and escarpment.

Points of interest: All bar one of the 14 houses in Kirby Underdale are estate owned. The Earl of Halifax's 15,000 acres hereabouts were valued at £90 million in 2001 by Kevin Cahill in his book Who Owns Britain.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Dogs: Suitable.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Click here to view a map of the walk

Updated: 11:32 Saturday, May 31, 2003