The Malt Shovel, Hovingham, York

EVERYTHING about Hovingham screams picture postcard. Tucked snugly amid the Howardian Hills, the thriving community boasts a pub so fine you wish you could fold it up in your pocket - before carefully unwrapping and putting it just over the road from your house.

I visited the Malt Shovel for the first time on a blissful spring evening.

After a brisk pre-meal stroll, I felt suitably invigorated and prepared to tackle whatever fine foods and beverages the Shovel could dig up.

Myself and dining companion Laura had booked a table in advance, aware that the combination of a busy Saturday night and a gastro-pub with a blossoming reputation could have left us high, dry and scurrying for double egg and chips at the Little Chef on the A64.

Granted an enthusiastic welcome in the front bar, we were quickly shown to our seats in a separate dining area.

As I scoured the adventurous menu, I became aware of a piercing gaze fixing my neck. Fears I'd upset a local within seconds of arriving were quickly allayed when I turned to discover a stuffed fox staring down at our table. Far from putting us off our meals, our furry friend added charm to a snug eating area tastefully decorated with hunting memorabilia and other taxidermy treats.

That run-in with nature may have caused us to pause for thought, but nothing prepared us for the fantastic fare soon to be dished up.

Like many village pubs in Ryedale, the Shovel prides itself on restaurant-quality dishes prepared using top local ingredients.

Starters included deep-fried black pudding, garlic mushrooms and smoked salmon. But I played daredevil and entered uncharted waters, plumping for the Camembert cheese in filo pastry served on a bed of port and orange (£3.95). Laura went for the home-made chicken liver pat, laden with chutney and toast (£4.25).

My pastry splintered into crunchy melt-in-the-mouth shards and was perfectly complimented by the rich, tangy sauce and exquisite cheese that conjured up romance by the Seine. Hungry Laura wolfed down her pat, its smooth, creamy texture contrasting with the satisfying crunch of brown toast. Both were also stunningly presented.

High standards had been set and like the unbeaten Arsenal title-winning team, things only got better. Main courses ranged from steak, gammon, and salmon, and for vegetarians mushroom stroganoff, ratatouille and pasta bake.

I chose the pork medallions with cheese and bacon in brandy sauce (£9.95) while Laura sampled the rack of lamb and minted gravy (£12.95) from the specials board.

The lamb, fresh from Easingwold, had a pinkish tinge and was gorgeously tender. It came swimming in thick gravy to soak up an ample but less imaginative supply of vegetables including new potatoes, carrots and cauliflower. The chips were lovingly hand-crafted.

My pork was perfectly cooked and came with a welcome helping of crackling.

By the time pudding reared its tempting head we were full. I was unsure I could move; Laura said she "felt like Elvis".

Purely in the interests of compiling a comprehensive review, we shared sticky toffee pudding with ice cream. This proved to be the crowning glory, boasting a thick toffee sauce and delicate, date-laced sponge. A bargain at £3.25.

Our bill came to £41.25, including two pints of bitter and soft drinks - good value for the high quality food, served promptly by attentive waiting staff marshalled by friendly host Gary Benson.

Finally, we drifted into the night, content and as stuffed as our foxy friend who had watched us dine.

The Malt Shovel, Hovingham, York , on the B1257, halfway between Helmsley and Malton. Tel: 01653 628264.

Dan and Laura visited on Saturday May 1, 2004.

Fact file:

Food: pretty tasty

Service: excellent

Value: not bad

Ambience: quiet

Disabled facilities: No

Restaurant reviewers aim to be fair and accurate. Any comments on this review should be addressed to Chris Titley, Features Content Editor, Evening Press, 76-86 Walmgate, York, YO1 9YN or e-mail features@ycp.co.uk

Updated: 16:36 Friday, May 21, 2004