Flaming heck

This month I've picked out some of the best ingredients, cooking methods and culinary terms that come under E and F in my A to Z of food.

First up are eggs, a key kitchen item. Eggs are full of life as they provide essential nutrients, proteins, fats, vitamins and minerals. You can do anything and everything with eggs. They can be boiled, fried, poached, scrambled or used in baking, sauces and for making fresh mayonnaise.

It is important to buy eggs from a reputable supplier and always buy the freshest ones you can. Free-range farm eggs are the best. Most eggshells are stamped with a quality mark and use by date. Generally, the older an egg is, the more watery the white.

Some people store eggs in the fridge, but it's really best to keep them at room temperature. It makes no difference to their shelf life. An egg will spit if it is too cold when cracked into a hot frying pan. A cold eggshell will crack when placed in boiling water. The shells are also porous, so the egg inside will take on flavours if placed next to strong food items such as onions.

Next we have a basic culinary term, emulsify. This involves combining oil with vinegar or citric juices using an emulsifier such as egg yolk. The emulsifier binds the ingredients together and creates a smooth blend. Hollandaise sauce and mayonnaise are classic emulsified sauce blends.

En papillote is another culinary term that sounds complicated but is simple. The literal meaning is food cooked "in a bag" that is usually made from greaseproof paper or foil. Fish is often prepared in this way, as it cooks gently in steam from liquid poured into the bag. En papillote is a healthy way of cooking.

Moving on to the letter F, first on the list feta cheese. I've included it in my A to Z as it's a personal favourite. Feta is a traditional Greek cheese made from ewes' milk. It is creamy white and crumbly. Feta is usually kept in brine, which gives it a salty flavour. It is mainly used in salads and pastries, or cut into cubes and served with olives and bread. Fab!

Next on the list is flamb. This is a technical term for adding alcohol such as brandy to a hot pan, then setting it alight. The process has a practical use, as it burns off the alcohol leaving a thick liquor that is full of flavour. Chefs in restaurants with open kitchens will often flamb for sheer spectacle, to grab the attention of diners. However, this really shouldn't be attempted in the home.

Next up we have flour. Flour is made from finely ground cereal such as wheat, barley, rye, rice or maize. The flour most often used in British cooking and baking is wheat flour. Wheat contains gluten, a protein that gives dough its elasticity.

As well as making bread, cakes and pastry, flour can be used as a thickening agent and for coating food or protecting it in batter. Make sure you choose the right type of flour for the job. Strong flour contains added gluten and is only used for bread making. Self-raising flour has a standard amount of raising agents already added, so you don't need to add any baking powder.

Finally, fricassee - a traditional French stew made from poultry or other white meats. The meat is gently cooked in fat before being cooked in a white sauce. Fricassee usually contains milk or cream and is garnished with fried baby onions and mushrooms. A really tasty treat.

In this month's prize draw, James is offering Evening Press readers the chance to win a bottle of Villa Italia champagne. Simply answer the following question: According to James, what type of flour is most often used in British cooking and baking? Send your answer on a postcard to Villa Italia, 69 Micklegate, York, YO1 6LJ or email competition@villaitalia.co.uk. Please include your name, address and phone number. Entries should arrive by 31 May 2004.

The lucky winner of a bottle of Villa Italia bubbly in the April prize draw was Mrs Y Barker of Hemingbrough.

Coming up in June: The letters G and H in James Lowe's A to Z of Food.

James Lowe is the chef at Villa Italia, 69 Micklegate, York. Tel: (01904) 670501

James Lowe's A to Z Recipes for May

Chicken fricassee

(Serves 4)

4 large chicken legs

2 large onions, diced

1.5 pint whole milk

1 glass white wine

2 tablespoons plain flour

4oz butter

100g baby mushrooms, chopped

100g baby onions or shallots, chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

Sprig of fresh thyme

Salt and pepper

Method:

Chop the chicken legs in half through the bone.

In a large heavy-bottomed pan, melt half the butter and add the diced onions, garlic and chicken pieces. Fry until the chicken is sealed but not browned.

Add the flour and stir in until it is all absorbed.

Slowly add the milk, stirring constantly. Add the white wine and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.

Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 30 minutes.

In a separate pan, gently fry off the baby onions and mushrooms in the remaining butter until golden brown.

Sprinkle the fried onions and mushrooms on top of the stew.

Serve with potatoes and vegetables.

James says: A traditional white stew that is full of flavour.

Home made mayonnaise

(Makes over a pint)

4 egg yolks

1 pint vegetable oil

1 heaped teaspoon mustard

1 tablespoon vinegar

Salt and pepper

Method:

Using a blender or food processor*, blend the egg yolk, vinegar, mustard and seasoning for one minute. Make sure you put the lid on first! (*You can use a hand whisk, but you may need an extra pair of hands to help).

With the blender still operating, very slowly drizzle the oil into the egg mix. The slower you add the oil the better. This process should take around four minutes.

The egg mixture will gradually thicken. If it becomes too thick, add a little water and continue blending in the oil.

Once the mayonnaise has thickened and all the oil has been added, check the seasoning. Add herbs and spices if desired.

Store the mayonnaise in the fridge and serve with salads, sandwiches and baked potatoes.

James says: This recipe is simple and makes the nicest mayonnaise ever.

Updated: 16:34 Friday, May 21, 2004