As he takes over as the Evening Press wine writer, MIKE TIPPING introduces Tipping's Tipples with two bottles of affordable German white wine.

I CAN'T start writing this column without reference to what went before.

Martin Lacy spent 15 years as Evening Press wine writer. His weekly wine ramblings were absorbing. I wouldn't try, or want to try, to carry on from where he left off.

So here goes... Send me to get a bottle of wine and what are the two words I would most probably avoid on the label? Answer - German and white. How ironic that the first two samples received in the Tipping's Tipples pigeon-hole had those words on their functional labels.

Rieslings both. I worried that they might be a little sweet for my taste.

The reality was that, yes, they were a little too syrupy. But if offered a glass, I would be more than happy to drink either again.

My mate Dave made a steaming hot pan of minestrone soup to accompany our wine. He also opened a tin of biscuits he had brought back from Sweden - tasty things spiced with cinnamon, ginger and cloves. It has to be said that the sweetness of both examples complemented the food well.

First uncorked was a 2002 Mertes Riesling Classic. Certainly not overpoweringly sweet and very fruity, this wine is slightly marred by too much acidity. It's not going to break the bank either at a very reasonable £3.69. I can't help thinking this would ideally partner a good curry and it's flavour-some enough to refresh the palate after any spiced food.

At £5.99, the 2002 Dr L was worth the extra outlay.

I was pleasantly surprised with this wine, which had a slight effervescence and an intense fruitiness.

It has a citrus nose and a lingering, warming easy to drink feel. It is a league or two above the Mertes but that is reflected in the price. If you were thinking of buying Blue Nun, please consider Mother Superior first.

It's fair to say that after trying these two Rieslings, I might have changed from, "Not the German white for me thank you" to "Oh, go on then". What me drinking a German wine?

2002 Mertes Riesling Classic, rrp £3.69 available at Safeway and Budgens

(Good with Indian take away)

2002 Dr L , rrp £5.99 available at Oddbins, Sainsbury's and Booths

(Great aperitif)

Updated: 14:31 Tuesday, April 20, 2004