MIKE TIPPING discovers a treasure trove of Italian wine in the heart of historic York.

Sandwiched, or should that be paninied, between Bootham Bar and York Minster is a little bit of Italy.

La Bottega delle Langhe is a small, but beautifully proportioned, Italian deli run by partners Ottavio Bocca and Heidi Wilson.

They set up their business in High Petergate nearly two years ago. Just recently Ottavio and Heidi have branched out, or should that be vined out, in to selling wines. Italian wines of course.

Ottavio has carefully picked out a range of around 70 from his list of UK wine merchants.

I get the impression that he would be happier sourcing his wines from his native Italy, like the rest of their wares in the shop. But, as he explains and I try to understand, with the burdens of duty and VAT imposed, it's simply not cost-effective for him to do this at the moment.

The range of wines starts at just over £5, rising to £100 for a 1999 vintage bottle of Solaia.

Most of Italy's wine-producing regions are represented.

Ottavio talks with pride and enthusiasm and a great deal of knowledge about his selection.

He is a qualified sommelier, having studied in part at Gleneagles. "The first time people buy wine here, they go for a name they know, like Chianti," Ottavio says, "but when they come back they trust me to recommend something different."

As I left the shop, with one of Ottavio's recommendations under my arm, the couple were doing a roaring trade as Easter holiday shoppers and tourists queued for ice-cream.

Ottavio's recommendation was a bottle of Bruni Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2002 which smacks the nose and palate with fruit.

This jammy, new-worldly characteristic was something I wasn't quite expecting from a Tuscan wine and I was pleasantly surprised.

The ripe cassis flavours do give way to a more familiar, mellow and ancient oakiness as an aftertaste. Now I could tell that this was an Italian wine.

This full-bodied drop is made using mostly the sangiovese grape but with a little merlot added for balance. It's approachable to the extent that I found it irresistible.

It's nice to see such a range of wines in York, which isn't over burdened with independents.

Drop in and talk to Ottavio, he is passionate about wine.

He's not bothered much for soccer though. "I don't have time for football, I'm too busy with work," he says. Now there's one national stereotype shattered!

Bruni Morellino Di Scansanso DOC 2002

£8.70 at La Bottega delle Langhe, High Petergate, York

****

A wonderful NOT Chianti

Updated: 16:35 Friday, April 16, 2004