What a caper!

First up this month are capers. A lot of people seem to confuse capers with anchovies. Capers have nothing to do with seafood. They are tiny flower buds from Mediterranean shrubs, which are usually pickled in brine or sea salt.

They add a sharp, pungent flavour to dishes with a piquant base. Capers are a key ingredient in tartar sauce. They are also found in pasta dishes, on pizzas and in salads. I guess you either love them or hate them. I love them.

Next we have capsicum, the generic term for the pepper family. This includes large mild peppers and all types of chilli peppers. Mild sweet peppers are the ones we are all used to seeing in supermarkets, with their yellow, orange, red, green and purple skins. The general rule is the lighter the skin, the sweeter the pepper. When buying mild peppers, always choose firm fresh bulbs.

There are basically two things to remember about chilli peppers. The smaller and brighter the chilli, the hotter the taste. So a big green chilli will be a lot milder than a small red one. The hottest type of chilli available is a scotch bonnet. They can really blow your head off.

When preparing chillies, wear vinyl gloves or remember to wash your hands well afterwards. The seeds can also hold a lot of heat, so remove them before dicing the flesh. Chilli is an essential ingredient in ethnic dishes such as Thai, Indian and Chinese.

As a final tip - drinking water doesn't combat the heat of a hot chilli dish. Try drinking something sweet such as fruit juice, or adding yoghurt or soured cream.

Carpaccio is a beef fillet, thinly sliced and served almost raw. When prepared the traditional Italian way, the raw fillet is trimmed back to pure meat and frozen. It is then sliced paper thin - you can literally see through the slices. The meat is usually served on salad and dressed with lemon juice and pepper.

When prepared the modern way, the raw fillet is rolled in crushed peppercorns and herbs before the outer surface of the meat is sealed in a hot pan. It is then chilled in the fridge before being thinly sliced. I've included carpaccio in my A to Z, because it's one of those forgotten foods. In my opinion, it's a true delicacy.

Next up is celeriac, a large bulbous root vegetable that tastes very much like celery. Celeriac is just coming into season and is great for tasty soups. It is also a versatile veg that can be boiled, mashed, roasted, steamed or even eaten raw in salads. Celeriac should be peeled and prepared like a potato. Watch out if you are using it raw or storing peeled celeriac for any length of time, because it will go black. To prevent this, keep celeriac in water infused with lemon juice, or mix with vinaigrette.

First under the letter D in my A to Z of food is daube. This is a French term for slow-cooked meat. Meat cooked "en daube" is usually braised in red wine stock with root vegetables and herbs. The meat is gently simmered for hours and hours until very tender. The process produces a simple traditional French stew.

Next we have dauphinois, a fantastic oven-cooked potato dish. Potato dauphinois is an easy basic dish that goes with just about anything. It is great eaten by itself, or as an accompaniment to steak or a roast dinner. The potatoes are thinly sliced, mixed with garlic and cream and topped with grated cheese. Simply fab.

Dill is a green feathery herb often used in Scandinavian cooking. It has a sharp, aromatic flavour and is great in fish dishes and dressings. Dill also goes well with soured cream and in creamy sauces. A nice all-round herb.

Finally this month, D is for duck. Often seen as a luxury bird, duck has a reputation for being a fatty meat.

There are ways of cooking it to keep the fat content down. Always cook a whole bird on a rack over a roasting tray. If you are cooking duck breast, you can remove the skin before sealing the outer flesh in a pan and oven roasting. Duck legs tend to be cheaper than breast meat and take longer to cook, but they do have more flavour.

Most chefs would agree that Gressingham duck has the best flavour. Duck goes well with fruity flavours and sauces such as orange, cherry and mango. Duck is also really great for casseroles and stews. Trust me, duck is not just for stuffing in pancakes!

Villa Italia, 69 Micklegate, York. Tel: 01904 670501

Recipes:

Beef daube

(Serves 2)

1.5 lb stewing steak, diced

2 carrots, peeled and diced

1 stick celery, diced

1.5 pints vegetable or meat stock

1 glass red wine

Sprig fresh herbs

2 tablespoons malt vinegar

Salt and pepper

Method:

- In a large heavy-bottomed pan, seal off the meat in a little oil. Season and add the stock, wine, vinegar and herbs.

- Bring to the boil and reduce the heat until gently simmering. Part cover with a lid to allow steam to escape. Simmer gently for one hour.

- Add the diced vegetables and more stock if necessary. Continue gently simmering for a further hour.

- Check that the meat is tender. Serve with new potatoes and crusty bread.

James says: "A traditional French stew. Simple to prepare and delicious to eat."

Carpaccio of beef

(Serves 4)

8oz fillet steak

2 tablespoons crushed black peppercorns

Half teaspoon dried chilli flakes

Tablespoon chopped thyme

Teaspoon rock salt

Method:

- Mix together the thyme, chilli, pepper and salt. Roll the fillet in the mixture and pat well into the flesh.

- Place the fillet in a hot dry frying pan and seal gently on all sides.

- Transfer the fillet to a plate and place in the fridge for a couple of

hours.

- Using a sharp knife, carve the fillet into wafer thin slices. Place the slices on a large serving plate around a bed of salad leaves. Drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice.

James says: "A great starter for dinner parties."

Dauphinois potatoes

(Serves 4)

4 large potatoes, peeled

3 cloves garlic, crushed

1 pint whipping or double cream

half a pound of cheddar cheese, grated

Salt and pepper

Method:

- Thinly slice the potatoes using a sharp knife. Place the slices in a medium-sized ovenproof dish.

- Mix in the garlic and season with salt and pepper. Level the mixture and cover with the cream. Sprinkle the grated cheese over the top.

- Place the dish on a baking tray and cook in a preheated oven (gas mark 5/190C) for around 40 minutes until the potato is soft and the topping is a nice golden brown.

James says: "A real treat that goes with everything."

Updated: 16:22 Friday, April 16, 2004