Frankie & Benny's, Clifton Gate, Clifton Moor, York.

IT'S no wonder film fans visit Frankie & Benny's. The 1950s Italian theme restaurant, located next to the cinema complex at Clifton Moor, York, could easily be used for another Godfather sequel or, heaven forbid, a Back To The Future follow up.

The walls are filled with black and white photographs of baseball stars, boxers and men who look like Sicilian mobsters.

Waiters and waitresses, dressed in Persil-white shirts and black waistcoats, carry above their heads huge plates filled with pizzas and pastas, and hum along to songs by Nat King Cole, Bobby Darin, Fats Domino and Dean Martin.

It could be 1950s America until you look at the menu, then the 21st century prices bring you back to reality with a bump.

We had visited the restaurant about five years ago when it first opened, and thought it was about time for a return trip.

After checking the restaurant chain's website we thought we would try the lunchtime menu, which at £7.65 for three courses, or £5.95 for two, seemed excellent value for money.

But, after phoning the York branch to check on opening times, we were told that they didn't do the lunchtime specials. Just our luck.

Undeterred, we decided to venture out, arriving at the restaurant at about 12.15pm, a quarter of an hour after it had opened. It was starting to get busy, and by 1.30pm, as we were leaving, it was heaving.

Knowing how little time we had before our two-year-old son, Elliot, started yelling "I'm A Bored Toddler, Get Me Out Of Here", we ordered quickly.

From a starters menu which included avocado and prawns, baked flat mushrooms, chicken wings and Mamma's Cheese Bake, I chose fried calamari (£3.95), squid rings to the uninitiated, which, according to the menu, were to be crisp-fried in a garlic and parmesan coating. My wife, Jayne, picked the tomato and mozzarella salad (£3.45). We also decided to share a garlic bread (£2.55).

From the children's menu (£3.95 for main meal and dessert), which contained all the usual suspects - hamburger, spaghetti bolognese, pizza etc - we chose chicken strips and fries.

Elliot got a pen, ruler, eraser and a puzzle sheet featuring Don Mousioni and the Gangster Mice, which came in handy while we waited for his food.

About 15 minutes after taking our order, our waitress returned, apologised for the delay - the calamari was apparently to blame - and passed us our garlic bread to be getting on with. And very tasty it was too.

Another five minutes elapsed before our starters - and Elliot's main meal - arrived.

Again, our waitress was apologetic, declaring that the starters chef was new.

One look at my calamari, and I knew why we had waited so long. The light, crispy batter I was expecting was dark brown, suggesting that the squid had spent more time in the fryer than necessary.

They tasted well done, too, but thankfully, the warm homemade Neopolitan sauce made them more palatable.

Our waitress said she would pass my comments to the manager and chef.

Jayne's salad was simple to say the least. Three slices of beef tomato, three circles of mozzarella, a handful of olives, and sprinkled with pesto oil. Nothing special, and overpriced at £3.45.

The main course menu was vast. Pizzas, pastas, burgers and steaks as well as "house specialities" such as Boston Beer Battered Cod, Sister Rosario's Salmon Fishcakes and Aunt Carla's Vegetable Risotto.

I chose pepperoni and mozzarella stuffed chicken (£8.95), which sounded great.

The chicken was cooked to perfection, and melted in the mouth, but I only managed to find two thin slivers of pepperoni and a small lump of cheese.

The dish came with a few broccoli florets, covered in a cheesy sauce, and quite a healthy portion of crunchy Italian-style potatoes, which made a nice change from fries or mash.

Thankfully, Jayne's main course was more substantial, and more enjoyable, than her starter. She had calzone legumi (£7.95), a folded pizza stuffed with peppers, red onions, mushrooms, broccoli and courgettes and topped with creamy cheese sauce.

Elliot seemed to have no problem with his chicken and chips, especially when a bottle of tomato ketchup was produced.

Although nearly full we decided to look at the tempting dessert menu which included, among others, East Coast Sundae, vanilla cheesecake and chocolate brownie meltdown.

We decided to share a 15 Dollar Banana Split, which cost £3.95. Very naughty, but extremely nice.

The meal, plus a pint of Boddingtons bitter and a diet coke, came to £38, which we felt was a bit on the steep side.

Will we return? Well, maybe if the lunchtime specials are introduced.

Frankie & Benny's, Clifton Gate, Clifton Moor, York. Telephone: 01904 691261

Simon visited on Sunday, February 8, 2004.

Updated: 09:01 Saturday, February 21, 2004