Good food doesn't cost a packet at Pastiche, as STEVE CARROLL discovers.

TWO courses for a tenner? This is what's on offer at York's newest bistro. Pastiche took over from the long-standing Lendal fish restaurant and jumped head-first into one of the most competitive restaurant markets in the city. With Marzano across the road, and new Italian restaurant Tuscany round the corner, Pastiche has got its work cut out.

But from first indications, a rosy future could be on the cards.

Pastiche does two things that I immediately like. First, the two courses for £10 - or two for £5 at lunchtime - guarantees that a treat meal out doesn't have to result in beans on toast for the rest of the month.

Secondly, the restaurant's menus change monthly, allowing patrons to return to try something different.

I visited Pastiche with my girlfriend Kathryn and despite the steady stream of customers, the service was prompt and always with a smile.

The 'two courses for £10' dinner deal offers a basic package, but you can choose other dishes and side-dishes, which carry a small extra charge for between one to three pounds.

However with roast duck and swordfish on the £10 value menu, there's no need to splash out furthur - except if you want a dessert, which costs extra.

It's also worth noting that the lunch £5 menu is separate from the £10 dinner one.

After being shown to a table - very IKEA - I kicked off with a baked flat mushroom with Shropshire blue cheese and dressed salad leaves (£1 extra), while Kathryn chose mini meatballs with salad and a blue cheese dip from the basic menu.

The mushrooms, all two of them, were caked in melted cheese, which was creamy, yet sour.

Kathryn's meatballs were a far more exciting prospect. Crisp and coated in breadcrumbs, the meat was well-cooked and had a spicy flavour. The dip was surprisingly similar to the cheese on the mushroom.

A cheesy theme was again evident in Kathryn's main course - goats cheese wrapped in bacon and breadcrumbs, deep fried and served with salad leaves and a Cumberland sauce, again from the basic menu.

I went for the dish with the biggest surcharge of all: roast leg of lamb with garlic roasted potatoes served with lemon and mint gravy (£3 extra).

Kathryn topped her dish off with chips at £2, and a dressed salad (also £2). I chose a selection of seasonal vegetables (£2).

The lamb was splendid, albeit a touch fatty, while the potatoes - roasted in garlic and brimming with flavour - were magnificent. The gravy was a mysterious affair, the lemon and mint combining to give an unusual sour taste, but this did not detract, while the vegetables - consisting of carrots, green beans, broccoli and cauliflower - were chunky and crisp.

Kathryn's main course consisted of two, large warm goats cheese parcels, the breadcrumbs and cheese coiled in the bacon. The sauce came as a dip in a little container to the side of the dish. As a criticism, it was a little bland, but inoffensive.

A bottle of Rowlands Creek Sauvignon Blanc at £13.95 had a fresh, medium dry taste - not untypical for a white of its genre.

Value is Pastiche's main calling card and, at £43.95 for everything, it was a worthy night out without having to worry about an overdraft to pay for it.

Pastiche has got off to a good start. But in a competitive market, the challenge will be to keep it that way.

Pastiche Bistro, 7 Lendal, York. 01904 628989.

Steve and Kathryn visited Pastiche on January 10.

Updated: 09:28 Saturday, February 07, 2004